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T O P I C    R E V I E W
matty1098 Posted - 05/26/2014 : 12:48:09 PM
Hello all. I have a light above my garage man door with a single-pole light switch inside the garage. I want to be able to create a three-way (a second location on/off switch) light switch inside my house in an existing hard-wired box. So what I need is a wireless transmitting switch (hardwire powered) that will talk to the original single pole switch to light the light.

After a ton of research, I found possibly using two Insteon SwitchLinc switches and linking them together will solve my dilemma? Every other wireless switch kit requires batteries and surface mount switches that i do not want. Thanks for your suggestions!
9   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
stusviews Posted - 06/29/2014 : 1:53:08 PM
If you have only black and white wires at the switch box, then white is line (it should have tape on it) and black is load. That's done to avoid connecting the fixture to two white wires.

You'll need to install the Micro Module in the ceiling box where you have all of line, load, and neutral. Note that the line (black) will be already be connected to the white wire from the switch and that the black wire from the switch is connected to the fixture.

The black wire from the switch should be connected to the Micro Module Sense 1 wire (yellow). The black wire from the fixture connects to the load terminal of the Micro Module. And, the Micro Module is connected to neutral and line.

You can install the secondary INSTEON device (e.g., Micro Module) at any location in the house that has both line and neutral. Then you link each INSTEON device in the 3-way configuration as both a controller of and responder to the other INSTEON device.
justatesta Posted - 06/29/2014 : 09:28:27 AM
Today is the day. I have simple latching switch that has has a black (line) and a white (load) in addition to a copper (ground) connection. I know that the black/line goes to the line terminal on the micro on/off as well as to the wall switch. I also know that sense #1 goes to the other terminal on the wall switch. Do I connect the load to L1 and ignore the neutral terminal on the micro?

As for the secondary control, I was planning on using a switch I own (to match the existing decor) along with a second micro on/off. The secondary location has no wiring for this circuit but there are other circuits there. If it is ok to take power from the switches of these other circuits, I assume I make a pigtail connection from the black/hot of one of the switches and connect to the Line on the micro, right? If so, how do I make the second connection at this device?
justatesta Posted - 06/17/2014 : 03:56:49 AM
This is all great information. I have four rooms that need this. I am going to try fixing one room by adding the Micro http://www.smarthome.com/2443-222/INSTEON-Micro-On-Off-Module/p.aspx with the ToggleLinc. Once I get comfortable with that I will buy more and do the other rooms and fall back on the battery remote if needed. Thanks fitz and stus!
stusviews Posted - 06/16/2014 : 8:13:03 PM
In an Insteon virtual 3-way configuration, only one device is actually wired to the load. It can be a SwitchLinc, ToggleLinc, KeypadLinc or Micro Module.

Any other controller(s) can be any of the above or any battery powered device. You are free to mix or match.
Tfitzpatri8 Posted - 06/16/2014 : 7:50:37 PM
If matching older-style hardware is a priority, I would use these and your existing switches instead: http://www.smarthome.com/2443-222/INSTEON-Micro-On-Off-Module/p.aspx
justatesta Posted - 06/16/2014 : 7:40:15 PM
Thanks, Would it be acceptable to use ToggleLinc Relay Remote Control On/off (http://www.smarthome.com/2466SW/ToggleLinc-Relay-INSTEON-Remote-Control-On-Off-Switch-Non-Dimming-White/p.aspx) instead of Switchlink On/Off (http://www.smarthome.com/2477S/SwitchLinc-On-Off-INSTEON-Remote-Control-Switch-Dual-Band-White/p.aspx) for the main switch? If not, what is the difference between the two? The reason I ask is simply due to the style of the switch which will match existing ones,
Tfitzpatri8 Posted - 06/16/2014 : 4:35:41 PM
In a typical multi-way installation, one SwitchLinc connects to hot, neutral and load, the others connect to hot and neutral, then the secondaries use Insteon signals to control the primary to adjust the load.

If your home has neutral wiring at the wall boxes, there's ordinarily no need for battery-operated devices. If not, the Insteon Mini Remote uses a rechargeable battery: http://www.smarthome.com/2342-242/INSTEON-Mini-Remote-Switch/p.aspx
justatesta Posted - 06/16/2014 : 4:10:51 PM
I want to do something similar. Please tell me if my understanding is correct for the solution in this thread: the first switch is actually wired in to replace the original switch but the second switch just taps off wires from some other light switch for power (so it doesn't need batteries), but the second switch does not to directly control, instead the second switch sends signals to the first switch? Also, both switches are the same model, right? (Insteon SwitchLincs)? I need to convert one switch to a three-way also, but I wouldn't mind the second switch running on battery. Does such a solution exist with this product?
stusviews Posted - 05/26/2014 : 12:58:50 PM
If you have line and neutral at both switch locations, then what you found (Insteon SwitchLincs) should work. It's possible that you may need a Range Extender and/or Filter, but that cannot be determined in advance.

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