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nowandthen
New Member

26 Posts

Posted - 07/17/2011 :  06:59:18 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by yardbird

I'd like blank button sets in colors other than white. (I use Ivory)
No design work needed. Just packaging. They already have blank buttons for custom etching. Just package them with a frame.

Why?

NONE of my conventional paddle switches used throughout my home have any label on them at all. If I install a 6-button KPL (for example) to replace the light switch for my screen porch, I'm OK with the "On" and "Off", but those other 4 buttons may not be linked to scenes at all. They may be linked to the interior lights of my detached workshop, or some lighting in the adjacent dining room or kitchen. Having them blank while we decide what we are linking to is actually preferable to having them labeled as "Scene A" and Scene B" etc.



I agree! I haven't tried this yet but EVIL Teken has heard the lettering can be removed (2nd to last post on page 20 of this thread)...

quote:
Originally posted by EVIL Teken

Nowandthen,

Regarding your request for the larger buttons in Ivory. You could order a few change kits in that color. Upon arrival you could also remove the laser etching from the buttons. I have been told they can be removed with little effort using some cleaner, or some rubbing alcohol. This would give you that 4 button look, along with the matching color in Ivory. It's not a complete solution out of the box, but it does give you another choice.



I would try it (removing the lettering) but I haven't ordered another set of buttons yet. If you try it please report back and let us know if it worked.
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Alpha_Assault
Average Member

USA
114 Posts

Posted - 07/20/2011 :  08:08:07 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

I'd like a two-gang Tabletop enclosure.


I agree as well, not hard at all to accomplish =), I understand it won't be seamless keypad to keypad. But a double tabletop device would make me happy. Even if some assembly was required on my own.
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dem5867
Starting Member

8 Posts

Posted - 07/24/2011 :  12:00:43 PM  Show Profile
Dual band outletlinc or dual band ApplianceLinc that is not a dimmer ...
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Alpha_Assault
Average Member

USA
114 Posts

Posted - 08/03/2011 :  5:17:33 PM  Show Profile
Dual-band switchlinc, non-dimming, like the new KPL units that will be 277v tolerant.
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klundy
Average Member

99 Posts

Posted - 08/21/2011 :  08:56:08 AM  Show Profile
Other than the oft repeated Fanlinc, I would like to see a weather proof Triggerlinc. My use case is 2 screen doors around our pool.

Kevin
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
11459 Posts

Posted - 08/27/2011 :  4:10:49 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
A wired in-wall motion sensor w/manual override. Ability to set the ms brightness level independently.

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MarindasDad
Starting Member

1 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2011 :  2:07:16 PM  Show Profile
Similar in nature to the suggested Fanlinc, I need a dual SwitchLinc Relay (Non-Dimming) in a single-gang size with the ability to control two separate switch circuits. The closest solution would be similar to the Lutron MA-L3L3 with SwitchLinc capability.
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dss
Senior Member

USA
315 Posts

Posted - 09/16/2011 :  11:48:41 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

A wired in-wall motion sensor w/manual override. Ability to set the ms brightness level independently.



I second this plus I would like it combined with a Switchlinc so you won't have to expand the box, it could replace a switch without losing a switch. Also I would like the option of having the sensor operate or operate independently of the switch to provide more flexibility. Kind of like an Insteon version of this:

http://www.smarthome.com/21610GY/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-VS106D1-GY-600W-PIR-Vacancy-Sensor-Dimmer-Switch-Gray/p.aspx
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instaman
Average Member

149 Posts

Posted - 09/29/2011 :  06:24:15 AM  Show Profile
1. Definitely a bump for a fanlinc.
2. A page in HouseLinc 2 for all your devices to display their status' on the same page with a simple on /off switch. Not sure why it hasn't been done already like most home control software do.
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
8603 Posts

Posted - 09/29/2011 :  08:47:31 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by instaman

2. A page in HouseLinc 2 for all your devices to display their status' on the same page with a simple on /off switch. Not sure why it hasn't been done already like most home control software do.


HouseLinc doesn't track all links in the house and communications between other devices the way the ISY does. The ISY listens for messages, checks its internal databases to predict how other units will react to those messages, then displays those predicted statuses. It would probably take a significant redesign of HouseLinc to do that and to start displaying all the devices' statuses at once.

The Insteon protocol is more scene-oriented than device-oriented, so making it easy to send direct commands to individual devices would actually get people in trouble--every time you use direct commands instead of group commands you get the linked devices out of sync. A different--and I'd argue better--approach is to add HouseLinc PLM groups as controllers of your scenes as well. If you do that, you can control them all from a single HL page by going to the HouseLinc PLM's properties.
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instaman
Average Member

149 Posts

Posted - 10/01/2011 :  5:12:48 PM  Show Profile
Still wish that a newer TimerLinc was in the works. One that could control more than one link or group. Two, three, four or five linls would be nice. Atleast we know its clock is stable without paying a steep price.
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jdale
Advanced Member

USA
1171 Posts

Posted - 10/02/2011 :  07:45:22 AM  Show Profile  Visit jdale's Homepage
Aside from the clock issue (which needs an update), the SmartLinc is basically the step up from the TimerLinc. It can control many more links/groups, for less than 3x the price.

Insteon FAQ: http://goo.gl/qNTNr
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instaman
Average Member

149 Posts

Posted - 10/02/2011 :  10:08:13 AM  Show Profile
Agree w/ price point jdale. Was really speaking on behalf of people I know (older) who want nothing (including email) to do with a computer, ethernet, internet,.. zero. I have a SmartLinc and besides the clock issue, like it very much but feel there should be an option like Timerlinc, only with a couple more groupings available. Maybe to control blinds separately from the lights at the least. I probably would have stuck with it myself if it had that. Not too sure why I need to control my lights and things when I'm not home (yeah, I got a SmartLinc and it's cool, played with it alot when I was on vacation but I'm still not sure why I needed it) especially if a TimerLinc covered all that for me. I'd trust it because it's on the most reliable network in the world, Insteon (IMHO). Wow, remembering the days when a Lamp timer was all that was needed to make you feel secure about your home. That's all.
(Apologies, I know this is suppose to be a request only page.)
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Sammer
Junior Member

USA
38 Posts

Posted - 10/02/2011 :  11:48:31 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by instaman

Still wish that a newer TimerLinc was in the works. One that could control more than one link or group.

Have to agree that a TimerLinc that could control at least 3 devices or 3 scenes separately and sold for under $100 would seem like a winner for SmartLabs / Smarthome. Some people are currently reluctant to give Insteon a try but a starter kit consisting of such a multiple device / scene TimerLinc, a couple of dual band LampLincs, and a ApplianceLinc could open up the market.
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sanders2222
New Member

USA
26 Posts

Posted - 10/02/2011 :  10:58:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit sanders2222's Homepage
How about an I/O link that will fit inside a switch box? The place gets kind of ugly with appliances plugged into existing outlets for a little automation.

The I/O link could have a decor face that shows LED status lights. Not sure how the low voltage wires can be separated from house wiring, but it would be nice to have these things flush instead of hanging against a wall.
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carealtor
Junior Member

USA
59 Posts

Posted - 10/07/2011 :  2:59:38 PM  Show Profile  Visit carealtor's Homepage
I've only read the last few pages of this thread, but someone mentioned a screw in LampLinc with a pull chain. Now THAT makes perfect sense to me and I'd buy a dozen of them.

One more vote for FanLinc!
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instaman
Average Member

149 Posts

Posted - 10/09/2011 :  1:59:18 PM  Show Profile
Would like to see Smartlabs upgrade the TouchLinc to receiving(download wise) and executing events from the HL2. The PLC was once looked at being able to at least run timers from HL but never happened (With exception of a couple of individuals who actually wrote programs for it to do just that). Just figured that the TouchLinc actually is a tablet with wi-fi, clock, descent memory and a processor. If they plan on sticking with it, then why not allow it to fulfill it's full potential, being able to run events without HL2 being ON. Just a thought.
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jdale
Advanced Member

USA
1171 Posts

Posted - 10/09/2011 :  10:15:18 PM  Show Profile  Visit jdale's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by jdale

Aside from the clock issue (which needs an update), the SmartLinc is basically the step up from the TimerLinc. It can control many more links/groups, for less than 3x the price.



I was thinking about this again and maybe changed my mind. I have an old X10 clock: http://www.amazon.com/X10-MT10A-Mini-timer/dp/B0002472RI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1318223460&sr=8-3

It can be set to control up to four X10 addresses, either every day or you can set it to just go off once. It also works as an alarm clock, and you can set the alarm to also trigger a device (e.g. turn lights on). And it's a mini-controller. Really a nice combination of features all in one bedside device.

Something like that, updated for Insteon, would make a nice device. The Smartlinc has the programmability but not the tabletop controller aspect or the ease of setting it as an alarm just before bed.

Insteon FAQ: http://goo.gl/qNTNr
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CloudyInFla
Starting Member

USA
8 Posts

Posted - 10/15/2011 :  7:15:21 PM  Show Profile
Full functionality for Garagehawk with Houselinc and Remotelinc. Door status and control. It's been 3 years in the waiting, right?

Door is open
Door is closed
Close the door
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Frank_YYZ
Starting Member

Canada
4 Posts

Posted - 10/25/2011 :  08:04:40 AM  Show Profile
Things I (and maybe others?) would really like:

1) Clear, flexible plastic overlay for new Remotelinc2 (4/8 scene version) so that one could slip a printed sheet of labels underneath. Don't know about you, but having 8 buttons labelled a...h is not very useful to figure out what each button does, especially if guests or family members try to use the remote! If not, then a way to buy and install pre-printed labelled buttons would be OK, but probably really expensive.

2) Fix IOLinc so that it reports the correct input status when Queried when "trigger reverse" is selected. This is a bug! The IOLinc should always report statuses correctly. Preferably, two status: the state of the relay and the state of the sensor. (It already shows up as two independent rows on my isy.)

3) Upgrade the Inlinelinc (with sense) so that it reports the SENSE status independently of load activation. This is really useful for wired in motion detectors. The sensor would be wired to the SENSE input and a program (isy, Houselinc, etc.) would decide if/when to activate/deactivate the load. This should be no big deal (firmware upgrade only) since many other devices (eg KeypadLinc, wireless motion detectors) already are smart enough to report back multiple statuses. For new wire applications, one can string 3 conductor wire and use two modules, but this isn't an option for pre-wired applications and there is no way I can fit two Inlinelinc's into one octagon box!

-Frank
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
11459 Posts

Posted - 11/07/2011 :  8:35:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
An option to enable or disable the ALL ON and ALL OFF buttons on the original RemoteLinc.

Edit: Even better, to be able to assign individual buttons to that function.

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.

Edited by - stusviews on 11/07/2011 11:09:04 PM
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vfm_1951
Starting Member

11 Posts

Posted - 11/08/2011 :  3:33:14 PM  Show Profile
I agree with Stu above. Also, I would like a RemoteLinc with 12 or 16 buttons to use. Six is just too few. Or better, a modular solution where you could start with 6 and add 4 or 6 more as needed.

Vince
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
11459 Posts

Posted - 11/12/2011 :  11:08:11 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
Custom etched single-gang wall plates for the RemoteLinc 2.

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.
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nowandthen
New Member

26 Posts

Posted - 12/02/2011 :  08:11:16 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by EVIL Teken


4 rows of big buttons


Using 6-button mode, cross-link adjacent buttons, use a large button cover for each pair. Result: three device KPL

Using 8-button mode, cross-link adjacent buttons, use a large button cover for each pair. Result: four device KPL

By not linking every adjacent pair, you can create five, six, and seven device KPL's, too.



Page 20 of this thread has numerous posts on converting Keypadlincs to fewer buttons. Unfortunately this does not work. :( I bought 3 keypadlincs and extra 6-button change kits in order to make 4 button switches. The problem is with the "skeleton" frame that holds the buttons. The frame consists of 2 rectangular "sub-frames" that hold the wide rectangular buttons, and 4 square "sub-frames" that hold the four square buttons. Replacing two small square buttons with one rectangular button does not work as the distance between the outside edges of the two small sub-frames is narrower than the rectangular button. So the rectangular button will not stay in place. Changing to 8 button mode was easy, and cross linking worked. At least now my 6-button is a true six button, top row is now on and off, and the bottom row is ON and OFF, not the goofy ON at top and OFF at bottom.

We need different frames to hold the wider buttons.

In reference to the post about using rubbing alcohol to remove the text on the keys, I can confirm that it does work. Takes a bit of rubbing but the text does come off. :)

So I reiterate my request for two-button and four-button versions of Keypadlinc. Seems fairly simple to do. Perhaps only one new "skeleton" frame would be needed? Could it be capable of retaining four of the existing rectangular buttons as well as two yet-to-be-developed large square buttons? If two frames are needed, develop the four button first. I have a few locations where I only need one more button, and three or four places where I could use 4 buttons. For me, 6 or 8 buttons is just too much. I'm thinking of returning the other unopened KPL's for now. :(

I may try a little super glue to see if that will hold the buttons on... if it doesn't work I've only wasted the cost of a frame kit.
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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member

Canada
1243 Posts

Posted - 12/02/2011 :  6:46:33 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by nowandthen

quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by EVIL Teken


4 rows of big buttons


Using 6-button mode, cross-link adjacent buttons, use a large button cover for each pair. Result: three device KPL

Using 8-button mode, cross-link adjacent buttons, use a large button cover for each pair. Result: four device KPL

By not linking every adjacent pair, you can create five, six, and seven device KPL's, too.



Page 20 of this thread has numerous posts on converting Keypadlincs to fewer buttons. Unfortunately this does not work. :( I bought 3 keypadlincs and extra 6-button change kits in order to make 4 button switches. The problem is with the "skeleton" frame that holds the buttons. The frame consists of 2 rectangular "sub-frames" that hold the wide rectangular buttons, and 4 square "sub-frames" that hold the four square buttons. Replacing two small square buttons with one rectangular button does not work as the distance between the outside edges of the two small sub-frames is narrower than the rectangular button. So the rectangular button will not stay in place. Changing to 8 button mode was easy, and cross linking worked. At least now my 6-button is a true six button, top row is now on and off, and the bottom row is ON and OFF, not the goofy ON at top and OFF at bottom.

We need different frames to hold the wider buttons.

In reference to the post about using rubbing alcohol to remove the text on the keys, I can confirm that it does work. Takes a bit of rubbing but the text does come off. :)

So I reiterate my request for two-button and four-button versions of Keypadlinc. Seems fairly simple to do. Perhaps only one new "skeleton" frame would be needed? Could it be capable of retaining four of the existing rectangular buttons as well as two yet-to-be-developed large square buttons? If two frames are needed, develop the four button first. I have a few locations where I only need one more button, and three or four places where I could use 4 buttons. For me, 6 or 8 buttons is just too much. I'm thinking of returning the other unopened KPL's for now. :(

I may try a little super glue to see if that will hold the buttons on... if it doesn't work I've only wasted the cost of a frame kit.



Happy to hear that the rubbing alcohol worked in removing the lettering. WD-40 works much faster but has a hell of a smell! With respect to the wide buttons used in the center.

You're correct some sort of material is required to make the button stay in place. The first thing I did was dab a extremely small amount of flexible clear weather caulking all around the wide buttons using a exacto knife.

Once the caulk was dry I simply shaved off any excess material until the wide button would stay in place! It is pretty much a friction fit and it stays in place also because the flexible clear caulk has a some what of a stick to it!

Please be aware that you will want to practice on something that you can test on. As some of the cheaper branded caulk sealant will over time eat into the plastic buttons or worse the caulk will dry out and one day the button will fall off.

All said it took maybe 20 minutes let dry then install. Using custom etched keys makes my install look extremely sexxy and professional!

Let me know how yours turns out!

Teken . . .
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
11459 Posts

Posted - 12/02/2011 :  9:26:24 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
I slipped a strip of double folded paper between the button and frame on this KPL http://www.stusviews.net/images/views/switches/switches002.jpg
This one has clear buttons that snapped in place http://www.stusviews.net/images/views/switches/switches001.jpg

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.

Edited by - stusviews on 12/02/2011 9:43:25 PM
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nowandthen
New Member

26 Posts

Posted - 12/03/2011 :  9:06:41 PM  Show Profile
Evil and Stu,

Thanks for the tips!. I was thinking about RTV (silicone adhesive) as it would allow some flex where super glue would not. Stu, nice four-button switch! That's exactly what I want.

Great tips! Thanks!
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Isaac
Administrator

USA
77 Posts

Posted - 12/05/2011 :  5:28:57 PM  Show Profile  Visit Isaac's Homepage
Attention FanLinc *ahem* fans!

Please take a moment to answer a one question survey about how you would control a FanLinc here:
http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/76DSKMN

Thanks!

INSTEON
Like us on Facebook
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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member

Canada
1243 Posts

Posted - 12/06/2011 :  12:41:00 PM  Show Profile
Just in case this has not been asked before, if so I would like to affirm that it would be great to see these features added.

1. Add beeping to the KPL units. Specifically, allow the user to program the KPL to emit a *continuous* beep / chime once activated.
2. Add flashing of the LED to the KPL units. If the user so elected he could make *ANY* KPL LED flash continuously showing that it was active.
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robinasu
Junior Member

USA
30 Posts

Posted - 12/16/2011 :  11:12:13 AM  Show Profile  Send robinasu an AOL message
Battery powered, hanging, RF disco ball spinning motor. Or, wall mounted and powered dual band. This would be awesome. Enough said!
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