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fiddletownrob
Junior Member

USA
42 Posts

Posted - 12/03/2013 :  7:32:58 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by jdale

You could make the list yourself... the posts are there...




Thank you jdale for the excellent list, it would have taken me days!

So now I have a few questions and thoughts:
1. Is there somewhere in this forum that we can maintain the list as a tabular list and not as a series of blog suggestions from hacks such as myself? Soon the list you put together will be inundated with comments like this one from me!
2. Can it be set up so we’all (plural of y’all :)) can vote on the suggestions (“like” in FB vernacular)?
3. Most important, do the good folks at Insteon even read the Smarthome forum to gather our suggestions or are we just a bunch of frustrated users pis---- in the wind, so to speak?

Regardless, here are my druthers for the Hub for now:
1. “Security” feature on the “timer” set-points (e.g., +/- 30 min. or better yet, user definable). As I mentioned previously the X-10 timer had this when I set my parents house up in 1977.
2. Allow multiple devices and scenes to have the same timer set point. When conflicts occur, simply cascade through all the devices/scenes with the overlapping set point (better yet, prompt the user to prioritize the sequence of events)…

As I learn more I’m sure I’ll have others, but for now thanks again compiling the list.

fiddletownrob

Edited by - fiddletownrob on 12/04/2013 08:03:16 AM
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EricK
Advanced Member

684 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2013 :  05:30:11 AM  Show Profile
Just received the new door sensor. Scene control should have separate open and close functions, not just open/close. In my situation I want the lights to come on when a door is opened, but for them not to turn off when the door is closed. I can do this with the hl event, but scenes always work faster.

Edit: with the 2 zone enabled in Houselinc there are separate open and close signals. The close appears as a separate line for the device in the scene window, but the open shows open/close. Tested it using open/close and the lights turn on when the door opens and do not turn off when the door closes.
E

Devices (approx): ISY-994 Pro, 15 KPLs, 33 switchlincs, 4 outletlincs, 2 door sensors, 3 Lamp-lincs, 5 Appliance-lincs, i/o-lincs for ELK WSV2, Somfy bridge,and garage door sensor, Leak Sensors, 2 motion sensors, 4 access points, about 20 X10 devices.

Edited by - EricK on 12/07/2013 1:21:53 PM
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burke
Starting Member

4 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2013 :  09:15:59 AM  Show Profile
I'm surprised there isn't a simple, single button insteon controller for a tabletop – i.e., a well made (not cheap construction) 2- to 3-inch diameter simple button; ideally, with corded and cordless (battery-operated, wireless) options. While I have filled the house with insteon technology, my wife would prefer to be oblivious to it. Without a nice looking (and sturdy feeling) simple button on her bedside table to toggle her lamp, she is going to use the lamp's switch like she always has. Putting a remote control on her table isn't going to fly and there's no way she is going to tolerate an 8-button ugly "keypad in a box" thing to control her lamp. I'm picturing something like a buddy button (http://snag.gy/kczkK.jpg) to toggle the lamp on and off.
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10432 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2013 :  09:30:30 AM  Show Profile
This switch version of the Mini Remote ( http://www.smarthome.com/2342-242/INSTEON-Mini-Remote-Switch/p.aspx ) is as close as they currently get. You can use it to control one scene (dedicated on and off sides) or two scenes (each side operates in toggle mode) and It can lay flat or snap into a tabletop stand ( http://www.smarthome.com/2444BWH/Mini-Remote-Visor-Clip-and-Tabletop-Stand/p.aspx ).

Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast
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jdale
Advanced Member

USA
1205 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2013 :  10:35:53 AM  Show Profile  Visit jdale's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by fiddletownrob

1. Is there somewhere in this forum that we can maintain the list as a tabular list and not as a series of blog suggestions from hacks such as myself? Soon the list you put together will be inundated with comments like this one from me!
2. Can it be set up so we’all (plural of y’all :)) can vote on the suggestions (“like” in FB vernacular)?


Not on the site. I could put the list up as a Google Doc like the FAQ, or we could put it up somewhere like SurveyMonkey for voting. I don't know if the additional data would be used.

quote:
3. Most important, do the good folks at Insteon even read the Smarthome forum to gather our suggestions or are we just a bunch of frustrated users pis---- in the wind, so to speak?


Given that about half the requests have become products, I think it's clear they do. But also that just because people want something doesn't necessarily mean it fits their roadmap or they think it will become a successful product.

quote:
Originally posted by burke

I'm surprised there isn't a simple, single button insteon controller for a tabletop – i.e., a well made (not cheap construction) 2- to 3-inch diameter simple button; ideally, with corded and cordless (battery-operated, wireless) options.



And if it was weatherproof it could double as a doorbell. There was an X10 product like this if I remember correctly.

The current solutions would be either a SwitchLinc in a tabletop enclosure -- it's bigger than what you describe but still looks decent and certainly works -- or you could attach a buddy button to the screw terminals on a Triggerlinc for wireless (but not as clean a design, maybe if you fit the whole thing in a project enclosure).

Insteon FAQ: http://goo.gl/qNTNr
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InspectorGadget
Junior Member

USA
30 Posts

Posted - 12/07/2013 :  12:27:08 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by jdale

quote:
Originally posted by burke

I'm surprised there isn't a simple, single button insteon controller for a tabletop – i.e., a well made (not cheap construction) 2- to 3-inch diameter simple button; ideally, with corded and cordless (battery-operated, wireless) options.



And if it was weatherproof it could double as a doorbell. There was an X10 product like this if I remember correctly.

The current solutions would be either a SwitchLinc in a tabletop enclosure -- it's bigger than what you describe but still looks decent and certainly works -- or you could attach a buddy button to the screw terminals on a Triggerlinc for wireless (but not as clean a design, maybe if you fit the whole thing in a project enclosure).




Yes, and for the corded version in Burke's concept you could use a micro-module in a project enclosure with the switch of your choice and a simple lampcord.

This is why I was pining for multi-input micro-modules, maybe even without any outputs (or with just the one output like a KPL), so you could wire up dual/triple/quad switches with the wall or table-based switches of your choice.

(The main benefit over the KPL being better ergonomics and choice in actuator/switch style and form factor.)
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rsenio
New Member

28 Posts

Posted - 12/09/2013 :  08:02:57 AM  Show Profile
Using the Insteon for Hub app, there should be a way to take a snapshot jpeg of the IP Camera just like there is using the web interface. It can save to the same location (FTP for example). And....there absolutely needs to be a way to schedule/configure the thermostat using the app as well. I was extremely disappointed to see I need to be standing in front of my thermostat in order to configure wake, sleep, away etc.
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10432 Posts

Posted - 12/09/2013 :  10:10:19 AM  Show Profile
I know what you mean, it was disappointing that the Hub app can currently only change the temperature and heat/cool/auto/off settings remotely but not switch between preset settings or schedules. There is a partial workaround--you can add the thermostat mode or set points to a Hub scene using HouseLinc's Scene tool to flip between modes when you activate a Hub scene--but the method isn't immediately obvious (nor easy for people without a Windows machine handy).

App development is ongoing, and they seem to be making major feature additions with each release--multi-scene keypad support, multi-way scene building with automatic cross-linking, FanLinc control and scenes so far--so, hopefully, more thermostat options aren't far off.

Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast
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rsenio
New Member

28 Posts

Posted - 12/10/2013 :  07:45:12 AM  Show Profile
Another oddity with the thermostat and app is that sometimes it does not display what is currently reading on the thermostat. For example, I have it set to 21C. If I open the app, often it shows the temperature at 20C.....where as the physical thermostat shows 21.
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Rev.Matt
Starting Member

Canada
11 Posts

Posted - 12/15/2013 :  11:34:07 AM  Show Profile
Not sure if it was mentioned earlier in this post but i'd love to see a Kwikset lock chip that was specifically Insteon. I know its possible to accomplish this with the ISY or with a vera using the zwave chip that's in it, but i've moved 180 away from zwave dew to several problems and dozens of wasted hours of frustration with my Vera. My house still has 3 kwikset home-connect deadbolts and I'd love to see a Insteon chip that i could just pop in, program and be on my merry way.
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BrianTown
Starting Member

USA
2 Posts

Posted - 12/16/2013 :  3:09:02 PM  Show Profile
I would love to see you guys add a "sense" line to your switches and dimmers. What I am thinking is a "sense" line just like what you have in the micro switch and micro dimmers. My house has a lot of 3 way and 4 way switches, with some lights having as many as 5 switches! Needless to say, I don't really want to blow $250 on a single light circuit. The solution I came up with was to use a Micro Dimmer at the 3 way end which goes to the light. Assuming I have power in the box (which I usually have found to be true) at that end, I feed the power down the 3 way legs and return it (from the other end) via the unused neutral wire. I connect this to the "sense" input and viola, I have the ability to turn on/off the lights from all 5 switches for just $50. The down side is that I don't get the nice Insteon switch on ANY of the switches. Instead they are all just using the stock light switches. Sooooo... If you guys would provide a "sense" line on your standard switches, or even on an optional product, I would get to use one switch as a normal insteon control input (ie. on/off faston/fastoff). I run an isy99 and often use the faston/fastoff signalling to do useful things. Sorry if my description is a bit complicated...

Brian
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
15711 Posts

Posted - 12/16/2013 :  8:12:48 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
You can use any SwitchLinc to control the Micro Module.

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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member

Canada
2337 Posts

Posted - 12/17/2013 :  04:50:50 AM  Show Profile
Leak Sensor: The new version should have dual LEDS to indicate a wet and dry state.

Green = Dry
Red = Wet

The device should have a *latch* to prevent the unit from changing states from wet to dry. If water is detected it should latch in the wet state. Once latched the device must be physically turned back to the dry state by pressing the set button. The current Leak Sensor does not flash its green LED at all, or consistently once water is detected this needs to be fixed.

The device should have a dial to adjust the sensitivity to the type of water environment in use. The new Leak Sensor should also have larger area feet to detect water or have all four points with the metal contacts. The power output of this device needs to be increased by 300% in its current form if its not within 20 feet of a AP the signal does not come through and this is even line of sight! The new device needs to have a de-bounce circuit as many people including I have seen a fluttering from wet to dry and this causes the linked insteon device to come on / off.

The heart beat should be selectable to 12 / 24 hours. I know people are trying to conserve power but having a heart beat in 24 hours is much too long, it should have a software program to change this to 12-24 hours, or a mechanical switch for those who don't have a HA controller.

Teken . . .

Teken . . .

Want to make a real difference? Cast your vote to make the PLM Pro a reality: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list/8221-plm-pro
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RobMtl007
New Member

Canada
25 Posts

Posted - 12/24/2013 :  03:41:44 AM  Show Profile
Greetings
My suggestion idea for a module is to help the elderly, by creating a Presence module.
When an elderly comes in the house the module will notify you that the person has entered the house. If the Elderly falls a gyro/accelerator sensor in the module will notify you that the elderly needs help.
I have my father who is 80, and he enjoys doing work in the garage, I would like to keep an eye on him.
Here is what a Presence module may look like:https://shop.smartthings.com/#/products/smartsense-presence
Robert
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
15711 Posts

Posted - 12/25/2013 :  8:43:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
Improved backlight control for the Insteon thermostat (2441TH) both a night mode and LED brightness level with the options being available for the wireless thermostat (2441ZTH) only when externally powered.

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.

Please don't PM with questions that can be asked in a forum
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BrianTown
Starting Member

USA
2 Posts

Posted - 12/26/2013 :  5:10:44 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

You can use any SwitchLinc to control the Micro Module.



What I'm looking for is just the addition of a 120v sense line (exactly like the Micro modules have) to your standard SwitchLinc dimmers. This would make 3-way circuits much more cost effective than having to use multiple SwitchLinks.

Brian
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10432 Posts

Posted - 12/26/2013 :  5:35:51 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by BrianTown

quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

You can use any SwitchLinc to control the Micro Module.



What I'm looking for is just the addition of a 120v sense line (exactly like the Micro modules have) to your standard SwitchLinc dimmers. This would make 3-way circuits much more cost effective than having to use multiple SwitchLinks.


That would make wiring more confusing and control less intuitive as well. Only the box with the SwitchLinc would be a momentary paddle (where on is always up, off is always down) with dimming ability and display, while other switches would still operate as on/off toggles where you had to see/feel the current position of the switch to know how to change the state.

If you want all the controls to be intuitive, you would really be better off to stick with your existing multi-way switches and just wire them all to the sense wire of a single micro module.

Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast
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InspectorGadget
Junior Member

USA
30 Posts

Posted - 12/26/2013 :  6:27:57 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by Tfitzpatri8
If you want all the controls to be intuitive, you would really be better off to stick with your existing multi-way switches and just wire them all to the sense wire of a single micro module.



IMO, the existing multi-way switches are just as unintuitive as you were complaining it would be like with one SwitchLinc and a sense wire going to the other old switches, so I think it would still be an improvement (at a huge savings) to have one SwitchLinc with a sense wire.

What would work best is a sense wire on a SwitchLinc and a number of the old 3-way slave switches used with the old X-10 3-way SwitchLincs. They have a momentary paddle that sends a signal to the main switch "sense" wire over the traveler wires. You could add as many slaves as you want. Google "X10 3-way slave switch".

Now what would REALLY be GREAT is if Smarthome made sense wires on Switchlincs that could sense Hot as well as Neutral (versus "open"), and then introduce 3-way slave switches that had directionality to them, so up would always switch on and down would always switch off, on the Master as well as any of the Slaves.

Smarthome used to sell Insteon transmitter Decora switches that had no load control on them. They came in a kit with a remote load module that they billed as a "2-wire solution". The transmitter units would work GREAT as 3-way slaves... without the need for the added expense of the load control it should have a lower cost.

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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10432 Posts

Posted - 12/26/2013 :  9:35:47 PM  Show Profile
Using a single micro module in its 3-way mode, all the multi-way switches would continue to operate like conventional 3-ways, only with the added benefit of automatic and remote control. Flipping any switch would simply toggle from the current on/off state to the opposite, no matter what state the light is in.

Volunteer Moderator & Home Automation Enthusiast
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
15711 Posts

Posted - 12/27/2013 :  10:39:07 AM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
Now what would REALLY be GREAT is if Smarthome made sense wires on Switchlincs that could sense Hot as well as Neutral (versus "open"), and then introduce 3-way slave switches that had directionality to them, so up would always switch on and down would always switch off, on the Master as well as any of the Slaves.


That's the way SwitchLincs operate now. Tap the top to turn on, tap the bottom to turn off.

BTW, line voltage is AC. The main reason line and neutral are differentiated is safety. There is no direction such as positive and negative as there is with DC. The earliest electrical installations switched the neutral, not the line.

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.

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TheSidewinder
Junior Member

USA
34 Posts

Posted - 12/29/2013 :  09:38:05 AM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by EricK

Just received the new door sensor. Scene control should have separate open and close functions, not just open/close. In my situation I want the lights to come on when a door is opened, but for them not to turn off when the door is closed. I can do this with the hl event, but scenes always work faster.

Edit: with the 2 zone enabled in Houselinc there are separate open and close signals. The close appears as a separate line for the device in the scene window, but the open shows open/close. Tested it using open/close and the lights turn on when the door opens and do not turn off when the door closes.
E



If you're talking about the 2421/2843-222 ("Device 40"), it can be set as you described, per page 6 of the full user manual. Their description for items 3) and 5) on that page is confusing though.
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InspectorGadget
Junior Member

USA
30 Posts

Posted - 12/29/2013 :  1:24:49 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
Now what would REALLY be GREAT is if Smarthome made sense wires on Switchlincs that could sense Hot as well as Neutral (versus "open"), and then introduce 3-way slave switches that had directionality to them, so up would always switch on and down would always switch off, on the Master as well as any of the Slaves.


That's the way SwitchLincs operate now. Tap the top to turn on, tap the bottom to turn off.

BTW, line voltage is AC. The main reason line and neutral are differentiated is safety. There is no direction such as positive and negative as there is with DC. The earliest electrical installations switched the neutral, not the line.



Stu, I don't think you're following me. I know that's how the Switchlincs work. What I was proposing was a cheap, minimal Slave switch that would momentarily switch either line or neutral onto the traveler, which would connect with the proposed (requested) Sense wire on the Switchlinc. The idea is for the Slaves to be inexpensive (like $20) with no electronics in them, just passive momentary switches.

The end result is to be able to replace a multi-way switch circuit for the cost of one Switchlinc plus several much cheaper slaves, and still have the physical ergonomics (up is always on) championed by Tfitzpatri8. This is what Brian wanted to replace his manual multi-way circuits without wasting a small fortune on Switchlincs for every box which would only be half-used.

For this to work, the proposed Sense wire in the Switchlinc would have to differentiate between Line being fed to the traveler versus Neutral. And although there is no "direction" as you put it, there IS a big difference between them: they're on opposite poles of 110VAC. The sense circuit in the Switchlinc could sense whether there is a large potential to Line, or a large potential to Neutral.

- John
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
15711 Posts

Posted - 12/29/2013 :  1:35:28 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
Not so. AC does not have "poles." If you swapped line and neutral, every 110/120VAC device would operate exactly the same, ground fault protection devices excepted. In fact, you probably have some plug-in devices that do not have polarized plugs.

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
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Please don't PM with questions that can be asked in a forum
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RobMtl007
New Member

Canada
25 Posts

Posted - 01/01/2014 :  11:07:39 AM  Show Profile
Greetings Everyone:
I hope Insteon users are looking forward to some new creative modules for 2014.
I think Insteon should look into helping people who love to take care of house plants.
I would like to suggest that Insteon creates a module that can inform the user if your plants need water, sunlight, etc.
Here is an example of what an Insteon module may look like:

http://www.smarthome.com/76354BL/Parrot-PAIPF900002-Flower-Power-Plant-Sensor-Blue/p.aspx

Also, in this section known as "Insteon Product/Module Request", it would be great to have a voting system so that we can find out which Insteon Module is being voted on the most.
This way Insteon can begin production in creating it.
Regards Robert
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InspectorGadget
Junior Member

USA
30 Posts

Posted - 01/01/2014 :  12:26:28 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

Not so. AC does not have "poles." If you swapped line and neutral, every 110/120VAC device would operate exactly the same, ground fault protection devices excepted. In fact, you probably have some plug-in devices that do not have polarized plugs.



Stu, you're quibbling over semantics and not looking at the point. They can be poles without being of fixed charge. Poles can just describe antithetical extremes.

If that bothers you so much call them "terminals" or "reference points". Substitute whatever you like. It's true you can exchange them in most circuitry BUT you must be consistent. If you connect line to black and neutral to white on your Switchlinc, you can't tie the other end of your load to either one. Switchlinc switches the black lead onto its load wire so you MUST connect the other end of the load to neutral, in this case. So they do have "polarity" in a slightly more abstract sense, it's just that the polarity is reversing 60 times a second and you can and must respect the fact that it's opposite between the two. That's the meaning of "poles" I was getting at.

The point I'm trying to make is that you could preserve on-off directionality in a passive Slave switch if your Sense wire circuit in the active unit were made to detect an AC potential to either line or neutral, and to differentiate between the two.

I belabor this point because the sense wire circuit in the micro module, for instance, only detects a potential to one of the AC terminals, the Neutral if memory serves. You can either have a static on/off or a toggle, but you can't have a deterministic on AND a deterministic off function with a single sense wire, the way they designed it in the micro module. So you couldn't implement the multi-way switching with a single traveler wire using that kind of sensing.

But as I'm writing this, I realize that you could use the dual sense wires of the micro module with TWO travelers And the "dual momentary" switching mode of the micro module if you built the proposed inexpensive Slave switch to take in a single line and give two outputs, one for the on direction and one for the off, which you could gang on the two travelers back to the dual sense wires of the micro module.

So all Brian would need are these passive momentary SPDT slave switches for his inexpensive multi-way lamp circuit, and he could build it on existing micro-modules and still save money.

Although it would be ideal if they built the dual sense wires into the Switchlinc, too.

-John
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stusviews
Moderator

USA
15711 Posts

Posted - 01/01/2014 :  1:03:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage
quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
If you connect line to black and neutral to white on your Switchlinc, you can't tie the other end of your load to either one. Switchlinc switches the black lead onto its load wire so you MUST connect the other end of the load to neutral, in this case.


Not so. A SwitchLinc can switch the line OR the neutral. Here's an easy test:

Cut an extension cord that has a non-polarized plug in half. Wire it to control a SwitchLinc, plug a lamp into one end and insert the plug. The SwitchLinc controls the lamp. Reverse the plug, the SwitchLinc still controls the lamp.

If you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage (when the SwitchLinc is on) between the load wire and neutral when line is switch and between the load wire and line when neutral is switched. You will get identical readings.

Even further, link a controlling device. The controller functions correctly no matter whether you switch the line or neutral.

BTW, I just created that exact mock-up on my bench

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.

Please don't PM with questions that can be asked in a forum
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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member

Canada
2337 Posts

Posted - 01/01/2014 :  4:40:44 PM  Show Profile
Smoke Bridge: I would like to see the next iteration of the Smoke Bridge have a heart beat. This would provide feed back if the device was plugged into the wall, or loss of power. Currently the device does not have a heart beat and there for can not be monitored in this fashion.

Another member brought this up and I thought it was a great idea to mention in this thread. His wife always unplugs the smoke bridge and there is no method to confirm its plugged in, or has power to the device.

Teken . . .

Teken . . .

Want to make a real difference? Cast your vote to make the PLM Pro a reality: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list/8221-plm-pro
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InspectorGadget
Junior Member

USA
30 Posts

Posted - 01/01/2014 :  6:09:55 PM  Show Profile
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

quote:
Originally posted by InspectorGadget
If you connect line to black and neutral to white on your Switchlinc, you can't tie the other end of your load to either one. Switchlinc switches the black lead onto its load wire so you MUST connect the other end of the load to neutral, in this case.


Not so. A SwitchLinc can switch the line OR the neutral. Here's an easy test:

Cut an extension cord that has a non-polarized plug in half. Wire it to control a SwitchLinc, plug a lamp into one end and insert the plug. The SwitchLinc controls the lamp. Reverse the plug, the SwitchLinc still controls the lamp.

If you have a voltmeter, measure the voltage (when the SwitchLinc is on) between the load wire and neutral when line is switch and between the load wire and line when neutral is switched. You will get identical readings.

Even further, link a controlling device. The controller functions correctly no matter whether you switch the line or neutral.

BTW, I just created that exact mock-up on my bench



Stu, are you being intentionally abusive? I never said you couldn't switch the neutral. I said IF you wire line to black on the switchlinc, you must wire the other side of your load to neutral, in that case. Look at the text that you quoted!! You're stuck on this one concept which is not in conflict with and has no bearing on what I was talking about. Yes, you can exchange line and neutral as long as you are consistent. I said as much in my last post if you really read it. And yes, I acknowledge that everything you said above was true, except your first two words: "not so".

I don't appreciate this level of disrespect.
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shannong
Junior Member

USA
35 Posts

Posted - 01/02/2014 :  09:26:34 AM  Show Profile
Provide an option for the 2441TH Thermostat that allows a user to make the first press of the "Mode" button turn on the LED back light with no changes. This would make the thermostat more user friendly at night. Should just be a firmware update to the current models.

The same could be said for the set point up/downs arrows but I think the Mode button is a better choice since the up/down arrows are used more frequently (maybe multiple times a day) vs the mode button used only during significant weather changes. That way during the day pressing the set point arrows would work as normal without a need to press twice.
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shannong
Junior Member

USA
35 Posts

Posted - 01/02/2014 :  09:33:27 AM  Show Profile
On the 2441 Thermostats, the Energy button should be accessible without opening the door. Having a "convenient option" such as the Energy mode is neutralized if you must physically manipulate the device to use access it.

Arguably the Energy button would be used more often than the Mode button, which is front accessible. The idea of the Energy button means it would be used at least twice per day when leaving and returning whereas the Mode button would only be used occasionally when there are significant whether changes. I'm not arguing that the Mode button shouldn't be front accessible. Just pointing that out to justify the front accessibility of the Energy button.
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