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Autogan Posted - 04/08/2012 : 12:58:34 PM
Recently I purchased the Smarthome FanLinc to use with my Hampton Bay Windward II ceiling fan. I've been trying since Saturday morning to install the FanLinc but to no avail. The ceiling fan has its own remote control - in fact it only runs by remote. The receiver mounted at the canopy is model number UC7058R. I've been able to isolate the purpose for each wire except 4 of them which go into the motor case. To complicate things, there is a capacitor (I've discharged it) (capacitor is 3-wire, 2x 4.5 micro Farad) upstream of the motor which is in the UC7058R receiver assembly. My questions:
1) What wires on the capacitor would I connect the red FanLinc wire?
2) Are there any other wiring changes necessary?

Thanks.
(BTW, I tried to load some images, but I can't seem to insert them).
30   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
donchicago48 Posted - 05/31/2021 : 05:30:51 AM
Thanks for helping solve a defunct quarter-century-old Hunter Model 25730 Ceiling Fan Remote Control Model CP-9110R issue. Calls to Hunter yielded little more help than a discount coupon for a new fan. The pinout of the 9-pin connector on this fan was somewhat different than the Hampton Bay model referenced in the quoted message from auto159:

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |RED|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|GRY|
 -------------
      KEY


The CP-9110R Remote Control on the Hunter Fan was located inside a round cup-shaped housing hanging beneath the fan motor. The cup could serve as the mounting point for optional light assemblies.

I removed a dual 5 uf Capacitor from the Remote Control by clipping its two Red leads and two Brown leads as close to the Remote Control Printed Circuit Board as possible. I stripped the insulation from the Red leads in preparation for connecting them to the revised wiring circuit below. The Brown capacitor leads are not used.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through the 5uf 250V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+


For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through the 5uf 250V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+




quote:
Originally posted by auto159

This is what I did with my Hampton Bay (HomeDepot) fan.
The UC7051R remote module died in a power surge (again) so I just bypassed the module to control the fan as a standard pull string fan.

You will want to verify the connections and capacitor size for your fan by looking at the traces on the remote module to confirm but the colors look the same as mine.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

Just switch YEL and Pink winding polarity (L vs N) to switch fan direction.

Use with 3 speed fan wall speed control or FanLinc (I do not have a FanLinc to test if this works but I would think it should).

Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |GRY|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|RED|
 -------------
      KEY

Note additional capacitors in the 5uf to 6uf range are for the fan speed control in the remote module. You don't need them if you will be using a Fan speed controller. The configuration above is for high speed. To get the lower speeds connect a capacitor in line with the fan line-in (in series with both sets of windings).
Search terms: Ceiling fan motor wiring diagram, Bypass remote module, Direct wire.


nathan.j.wells Posted - 09/11/2020 : 07:05:40 AM
Found this thread from Kent Diego's youtube video "Hampton Bay or Hunter Ceiling Fan Remote Re-Wiring for Wall Control." Ordered a new capacitor and wired it up with a Luton Maestro dimmer and fan control wall switch. Works perfectly other than not being reversible. Anyone try to wire up a switch to allow easier fan reversal? I am stumped at the moment but won't give up, so if I or my friends figure it out I will post.

Thanks jpagliughi for the wiring diagram!
JoeOz Posted - 07/02/2020 : 3:06:49 PM
Thanks for the new info Kevin! It'll be a while before I get to it as my wife & I are now in NH - getting away from the Florida heat & humidity - and will return in Sept. I'll post again when I get it back together or if I have any other questions. You've been a great help and we both really appreciate it as the fan was purchased in '06 as our 25th anniversary gift to each other and are anxious to see it back in action. Have a great summer!
Bigolotava Posted - 06/27/2020 : 9:08:28 PM
Joe - Forgot to mention that the 4.5uF shown in auto159's diagram is a capacitor. My old controller had three of them: 8.0, 6.0 and 4.7uF. I simply snipped-off the 4.7uF capacitor and used it. Used two small wire nuts. One between the capacitor and the grey motor wire and to the other end of the capacitor to the neutral. The capacitors in my old controller were yellow/rectangular with leads about 3/4" long.

The hum you heard was likely caused by the old speed controller sending a distorted electrical signal to the motor rather than a nice, clean sine wave. I'd bet that was causing the motor to hum. Regarding lube, a drop of 3 in 1 oil or motor oil onto the motor shaft where it goes into the housing should do if your concerned about lubrication. The oil will wick into the bearing. Don't overdue it or you'll have a mess.
Just a drop or two at most should do it.

Let me know how it turns out or if you have any other questions,

Kevin
JoeOz Posted - 06/27/2020 : 7:59:25 PM
Thanks for the great info! I'm pretty handy with wiring and I already have it disassembled, so with this new info I can move forward on the project. But while I have it down I plan to give it a good cleaning and lube what I can and see if I can eliminate the slight hum in the motor. If you have any tips that can help on this as well it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for the wiring information!

Bigolotava Posted - 06/27/2020 : 10:38:18 AM
Joe,

The in-fan speed controllers are very poor quality. Don't waste your time or money trying to install another. Best solution is to get a wall mounted fan controller at Lowe's, Home Depot or most any home improvement store. All the wall mounted controllers control fan speed, the better ones also include a light switch/dimming feature as well as a reverse direction switch. Some even have their own remotes if you prefer going that route.

To do this though, you first need to gut the fan of the old controller and wiring so you can wire directly to the motor windings as shown on page-1 per auto159's diagrams. Your fan's light is wired via the blue lead and one of those white leads. They in turn are connected back to your wall mounted fan controller. I found it easier to just take the fan down from the ceiling, remove all the blades, then disassemble as necessary so you can remove the old controller and get the leads for motor windings and the light sorted-out. If you're not good at electro-mechanical things like this, best to find a pro or buddy who is. Once you have access to the wires, wire as shown back on page-1. I do hope this helps, as it did help me and the fan has been working fine now for several years. All the best - Kevin
JoeOz Posted - 06/10/2020 : 6:27:52 PM
Although this is an older discussion I'm hoping to get some direction and suggestion with my fan speed controller. I purchased a Harley Davidson fan back in 2006 as an Anniversary present for our home and it has worked flawlessly until we returned from a vacation to find some appliances, a tv, and a computer with fried motherboards, and the fan no longer worked either. It has a Rhine speed control Model UC7058RYS and the remote has the number UC7068TG, and all made in Taiwan. I found an Anderic speed controller on Ebay that looks identical, right down to the same color of wires for $49.95.
ebay.com/itm/Original-ANDERIC-Ceiling-Fan-Receiver-for-Windward-II-54-in-Ceiling-Fan-523127/114250557042?
If you want just Copy the URL and paste to your browser to take a look.
I read all the threads about the UC7058RY and all the wiring info but I'm not sure what the "S" on my model designates and the "RY" model has only 7 wires and mine has 8. So before I do anything or sink any money into it I'm hoping to find out what wires I connect to power to see if the motor still spins.
Also, assuming the motor's good, any insights about the Anderic control unit would be great. I would have no problem hooking it up to a wall controller as we always had the remote sitting in its cradle on the wall anyways, but finding a compatible controller would certainly be the simplest and easiest thing to do.
If hooked up to a wall unit I can live without the sound box and the light dimmer feature but we do use the light, all the speeds, and the reverse features.
The colors of the wires are:pink,red,black,blue,grey,yellow and two white wires. The sticker has the UPC#850251810015 and the model says 52HARL. It looks like the serial number is 0003556.
Thanks in advance and I look forward to hearing from someone.
Autonow Posted - 08/09/2018 : 12:02:54 PM
Been here done that with my Casablanca fans. You need to strip the system down to motor leads and the light. Then hook up the fanlinc. You may need to add a run capacitor across the motor leads (not power) since it was probably part of the original fan controller.
Bigolotava Posted - 07/30/2017 : 12:02:47 PM
The Yellow/Red/Pink/Grey wires should be the motor windings as described on page-1.

The Black & White are for the 120V/Neutral that went to the controller.

The brown likely went to the 3-wire run capacitor in the controller.
If it too goes to the motor, leave it disconnected and either tape it off or screw a wire nut over the end of it so it won't short to anything. Then connect as shown back on page-1.

I completely removed the old, malfunctioning controller. Once you do that, all you need to connect to the power are the four motor winding wires as shown on page-1 (along with a 4.5uF capacitor) to the 120VAC and neutral.

Be sure to make sure its rotating the correct direction BEFORE you get it all put back together. You may need to swap the polarity on the Pink/Yellow winding to get it to rotate in the proper direction. I momentarily connected power on mine to see which way the motor started to go... it was reversed, so was glad I checked first!

Back at your wall switch is where you'll now install a new, generic fan speed control switch. Depending on your preference, you can get one to control the fan speed only, or both the fan speed and the lights.

They cost about $25 at Home Depot/Lowes and I've found them to be much more reliable than the fan-mounted Rhine controller.

Hope this helps!


quote:
Originally posted by folkega

I would like to do the same thing to a Hunter Model 23530-300 Fan. The receiver Model 85112-04 has failed. The wire colors do not line up exactly with the above description for Hampton Bay. The Hunter connector colors are black, white, yellow, red, pink, gray, brown.

folkega Posted - 07/29/2017 : 3:38:11 PM
I would like to do the same thing to a Hunter Model 23530-300 Fan. The receiver Model 85112-04 has failed. The wire colors do not line up exactly with the above description for Hampton Bay. The Hunter connector colors are black, white, yellow, red, pink, gray, brown.
Bigolotava Posted - 07/03/2017 : 4:06:25 PM
While this thread is old, I was very glad to find it. Having a bad Rhine UC7058RY fan controller in my Hunter fan, I decided to remove the bad controller and just wire the Motor & Lamp leads to a fan control/dimmer from Home Depot. (Hunter #27182)

After disassembling the fan, was surprised to find there wasn't a single lead for the motor, but rather four! Having no idea how they were connected, I searched and found this thread. I simply re-used the 4.5uF run capacitor from the dead Rhine controller and wired up the windings as shown on the previous pages. The fan & light work great!

Really appreciate everyone's insight, as it saved me from having to purchase a new ceiling fan! Thanks!

Kevin - Chandler, AZ
stusviews Posted - 04/18/2016 : 3:29:47 PM
Here's a remote plus receiver: http://www.amazon.com/Hampton-Bay-Thermostatic-Ceiling-Control/dp/B001AQQSRM
HiMiles Posted - 04/18/2016 : 1:35:18 PM
Thank you Stu, I really appreciate your help and time. So this is the confusing part, my friend's Hampton Bay Windward II ceiling fan has the same remote the FAN9T that i tried on mine and it didn't work. I actually opened up his fan to get to his receiver, and it turned out different (FAN10-R as opposed to UC7058R). So i still can't tell if my receiver is the culprit, or I need a different remote. From what i understood from Hampton Bay, many of the remotes model FAN9T have different setup within them depending on the year the fan was produced. I have lots of pictures to share, but i can't figure out the attachment procedure. Thanks again for your time, i really appreciate it.

quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

http://www.amazon.com/Hampton-Bay-FAN9T-Thermostatic-Remote-Control/dp/B00AM00QJS

stusviews Posted - 04/18/2016 : 12:04:50 PM
http://www.amazon.com/Hampton-Bay-FAN9T-Thermostatic-Remote-Control/dp/B00AM00QJS
HiMiles Posted - 04/17/2016 : 2:39:20 PM
Thanks Stu for the quick reply and have a safe trip!
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

Your dilemma involves a product that's not at all SH nor Insteon involved. Your best bet is to search for the manual for the fan model. That should indicate the specific remote model number.

I'm awaiting a flight or I'd research for you

stusviews Posted - 04/17/2016 : 2:28:15 PM
Your dilemma involves a product that's not at all SH nor Insteon involved. Your best bet is to search for the manual for the fan model. That should indicate the specific remote model number.

I'm awaiting a flight or I'd research for you
HiMiles Posted - 04/17/2016 : 1:52:33 PM
Thanks Stu. The reason why i posed the question here is because it involved the same fan with an identical receiver. i am guessing retrofitting a Fanlinc was due a dead receiver or a lost remote, since the thermostatic remote has some additional functionalities. I was hoping Autogan could share the earlier steps that led him to go for the Fanlinc. Do you recommend a specific forum for my questions, or create a separate thread? Thanks in advance!

quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

This topic is about converting a Hampton Bay fan to use an Insteon FanLinc.

The only way to test the existing Hampton Bay receiver is to transmit a signal from a known working compatible transmitter to it. You'll have to research the fan you have to determine which transmitters are compatible.

stusviews Posted - 04/17/2016 : 1:19:21 PM
This topic is about converting a Hampton Bay fan to use an Insteon FanLinc.

The only way to test the existing Hampton Bay receiver is to transmit a signal from a known working compatible transmitter to it. You'll have to research the fan you have to determine which transmitters are compatible.
HiMiles Posted - 04/17/2016 : 11:18:18 AM
I was so happy to find this thread, and to know I'm not crazy for trying to salvage my fan. I purchase recently a used Hampton Bay Windward II without a remote. I didn't know ahead how difficult it would be to find the proper remote even though a lot of the thermostatic remotes look almost identical. First of all, I verified that the fan motor as well as the fluorescent light were functioning, by bypassing the receiver (UC7058R). When i borrowed my friend's thermostatic remote used with a newer production HB WindwardII fan (2015), it did not work with mine (produced 2008,all the pins were identical on both the fan motor and the remote).
My question is first of, how do i make sure the receiver is working properly? the 3 wire capacitor looks intact; I need help and guidance on what to test and how, please. Second, how do i know which thermostatic remote to buy, assuming the receiver is not at fault.
jpagliughi Posted - 04/10/2016 : 12:27:02 PM
stusviews and Big_Rs can you please send me schematics and instructions on how to remove the remote receiver and wire so i can install the FanLinc I WOULD BE IN YOUR DEBT FOR WHAT EVER YOU NEED IN THE FUTURE!!! i really want this to work but dont want to blow the fan up (Wife will kill me)
thanks for all the replies.
John
stusviews Posted - 04/07/2016 : 5:08:54 PM
It appears the the original remote receiver is removed and the FanLinc is installed in its stead.

The motor is not shown in any but Big_Rs post which suggests that that's what the w's represent.
jpagliughi Posted - 04/07/2016 : 3:22:51 PM
i apoligize for the confusion stusviews, i meant 50% of this topic of Hampton bay fan and the FanLinc schematics, can anyone or you simplifly the schematics so my hampton bay fan with the UC7051R remote module work with FanLinc module??? thanks for replying John
stusviews Posted - 04/07/2016 : 1:13:40 PM
I don't see any posts in this topic that refers to 50%.

The on-line FanLinc Owner's Manual does have an explanation of the various dimmer percent levels and how they affect the speed of the fan.
jpagliughi Posted - 04/07/2016 : 12:27:05 PM
i have read all the posts and understand about 50%, can someone tell me if this works with the insteon fanlinc? also on the schemnatics what do the wwwww mean?
thanks to all
John
jpagliughi Posted - 04/06/2016 : 4:28:00 PM
Auto159 i have the exact ceiling fan remote interface, can you send me an easier wire diagram to [email protected]? i dont understand what the (wwww) mean between the colors. also will the 3 speeds work? thanks for all your research in this fan problem.
John P.



This is what I did with my Hampton Bay (HomeDepot) fan.
The UC7051R remote module died in a power surge (again) so I just bypassed the module to control the fan as a standard pull string fan.

You will want to verify the connections and capacitor size for your fan by looking at the traces on the remote module to confirm but the colors look the same as mine.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

Just switch YEL and Pink winding polarity (L vs N) to switch fan direction.

Use with 3 speed fan wall speed control or FanLinc (I do not have a FanLinc to test if this works but I would think it should).

Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |GRY|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|RED|
 -------------
      KEY

Note additional capacitors in the 5uf to 6uf range are for the fan speed control in the remote module. You don't need them if you will be using a Fan speed controller. The configuration above is for high speed. To get the lower speeds connect a capacitor in line with the fan line-in (in series with both sets of windings).
Search terms: Ceiling fan motor wiring diagram, Bypass remote module, Direct wire.

[/quote]
stusviews Posted - 03/29/2016 : 10:53:03 PM
Thanks for the write-up

A 2487D will work as well because there's no load on the device (i.e., load wire is capped) and it doesn't click as does the 2478S. Unless you're also wiring the KeypadLinc to a greater than 15 amp or non-dimmable load.
Big_R Posted - 03/29/2016 : 9:22:28 PM
NOTE: I can't figure out how to get the diagram to display correctly - someone send me a tip and I'll correct it!

--

I'm sharing my experience, but I assume no liability for your results. Proceed at your own risk.

After several nervous hours of staring at this thread reading and re-reading, I wanted to add a little more detail for anyone who is feeling the way I was. I now have three fans working with this configuration, and it works perfectly for me. I started with an Insteon Fanlinc (model 2475F) and a Fanimation "Embrace 44" (model FPS7981). These fans contain the Model UC7058RY brain/receiver mentioned by others here, which apparently is found in many other fans. This configuration allows me to use all three speeds on the fan via Insteon Fanlinc, but the fan is not reversible, which I don't care about. You won't be using the wall controller gadget that came with the fan either - that role is taken over by Insteon.

1. Order a "4.5uf ceiling fan capacitor" online. I got one on Amazon for $6 shipped. Mine had two wires and no polarity. Pick up a fire extinguisher while you're at it. (why not?)
http://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Capacitor-Wire-4-5uf/dp/B00A3KIM48

2. Cut out the UC7058RY from the fan/motor body. Yes, this feels weird. Leave the wires long on the fan motor side, since you won't be using the UC7058RY any more anyway - its role is replaced by Fanlinc.

3. Connect the wires as shown - I chose to solder several so it would be easier when installing the fan up on the ceiling with wire nuts. In my experience the prior diagrams' PINK/YEL were backwards, since the fan worked but was blowing air up rather than down. When I swapped these (as shown below), the air blew downward as desired. I have also added the RED wire for the Insteon Fanlinc (prior diagrams showed this as "BLK"?).

4. Replace your old wall-switch location with an Insteon 2487S and Insteon 2322-382 button kit. I use the "ON" button as a scene to "turn the room on" - set the lighting, set the fan speed, turn on the TV, etc.


120V Pwr from wall (permanent - not switched)

(WHT) (BLK)
| |
(WHT) (BLK)
| |
+---------------------------------------|
| | Insteon Fanlink (2475F) |
| -------------------------------------|
| | |
| (BLUE) (RED)
+------Light------| |
| |
| |
+-------------------PINK--(motor)--YEL--+
| |
+------(4.5Uf CAP)--GRAY--(motor)--RED--+
a002074t Posted - 03/08/2016 : 2:46:05 PM
Thanks Auto159 - This is exactly what I needed to replace my failing Hampton Bay receiver with a universal one. I would include a couple photos of my work but don't have the time to figure out this forum's archaic interface. Good job in documenting your work.

For those of you who want to add a light, just connect White to White and Blue to Blue from the secondary side of the receiver.


                120V Pwr
(WHT)                                (BLK)
  |                                    |
 |--------------------------------------|
 |                Receiver              |
 |--------------------------------------|
  |                 |                  |
  |              (Blue)                |
  |------Light------|                  |
(WHT)                                (BLK)
  |                                    |
  |                                    |
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+



quote:
Originally posted by auto159

This is what I did with my Hampton Bay (HomeDepot) fan.
The UC7051R remote module died in a power surge (again) so I just bypassed the module to control the fan as a standard pull string fan.

You will want to verify the connections and capacitor size for your fan by looking at the traces on the remote module to confirm but the colors look the same as mine.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

Just switch YEL and Pink winding polarity (L vs N) to switch fan direction.

Use with 3 speed fan wall speed control or FanLinc (I do not have a FanLinc to test if this works but I would think it should).

Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |GRY|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|RED|
 -------------
      KEY

Note additional capacitors in the 5uf to 6uf range are for the fan speed control in the remote module. You don't need them if you will be using a Fan speed controller. The configuration above is for high speed. To get the lower speeds connect a capacitor in line with the fan line-in (in series with both sets of windings).
Search terms: Ceiling fan motor wiring diagram, Bypass remote module, Direct wire.


stusviews Posted - 06/04/2015 : 8:19:27 PM
The is no mention in the post about the lighting wires except, "Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)."

What did you connect the FanLinc light wire to?
Mwood012 Posted - 06/04/2015 : 6:42:42 PM
I see, well the photographs posted above in this thread are exactly what I have. I just need to figure out why the light won't turn on....

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