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T O P I C    R E V I E W
bfollowell Posted - 11/22/2014 : 06:39:46 AM
My wife and I will be moving into our new home soon. I had CAT6 and RG6 ran everywhere. I just found out that the electrician won't be terminating the ends of the cables, so I need to pick up some connectors and tools to get the job done before Time Warner Cable comes to hookup. I'm sure they'd do a few of them for me as part of the install, but I doubt they'd do them all and I'd really prefer to have everything inside done so that all they have to do is hookup to the house and then confirm signal inside.

First of all, how to I wire the RJ-45 connectors? I am not planning to have a patch panel; I really don't see the purpose. I'll be coming straight from the jacks in the individual rooms, back to my network room and straight into the network switch. Would I wire these up in a "straight" configuration? It looks like cross-over configuration is used only to connect devices directly. From what I can see, patch cables, and in-wall cabling like I have should be wired straight. I just wanted to confirm.

Secondly, since I need to do these myself, I need to pick up a couple of tools. I have a decent RG-6 stripper. Does anyone have any good suggestions for an Ethernet stripper, an RJ-45 crimper, and an RG-6 compression tool? Also, what about F-type RG-6 compression connectors and RJ-45 connectors? For the tools, I'd like to get decent quality, but let's face it, after I get this job done, I'll only use these pretty infrequently so I'd rather not shell out $300 for a set of professional tools if I can get by with something almost as good for much less.

Lastly, any tips on getting f-type connectors seated well? I ran all new wiring for our satellite setup at our old house a couple of years ago and had the most horrible experience ever getting those connectors seated well, and I use the term "well" lightly. I thought I bought fairly high quality connectors and wire but it was a nightmare and I was barely able to get the connectors seated well enough to get the dielectric up to the base of the connector; some I couldn't even get that close. I cut, blistered and pretty much wore my palm out trying to push and twist those things on and get them down far enough. I don't know if it was an equipment issue of if I was just screwing something up. Any advice to keep me from having a similar horrible experience would be most appreciated.

Thanks for any advice anyone is able to give.
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BLH Posted - 12/18/2020 : 03:36:37 AM
Power company feed is Split Single Phase electric power. So you always have both 120V and 220V in the home and circuit breaker panel. Two 120V Lines and a Neutral. You get 120V between either Line and Neutral and 220V between the two Lines.

Yes you get both 120Vs and 220Vs in a home automatically. 120V for things like lights and appliances etc. 220v is for high power loads like stoves ovens electric dryers. That way you even the load on the main feed and about half the load is on each line feeding the home.

There is a difference between 120V and 220V wiring and outlets. The 220V outlets have a different socket layout so you can't connect a 120V device and make smoke.

Circuit capacity also determines a wire size and things like outlets. A 20 Amp circuit will have heavier wire and if it has outlets it will have a different socket configuration. So both a 15 and 20 amp plug could fit it. While a 20 amp plugs pin layout would not fit into a 15 amp plug.

Others may have better information on electrical service size and low voltage wiring used in new devices needs. My old home is a 100 Amp service and the electrical panel is full. 200 Amp or higher service maybe a typical service size these days. As many more electrical devices are available now. Having a larger service rating may be slightly more costly but in the end give you expansion room for future needs.
Breitenberg Posted - 12/17/2020 : 9:32:03 PM
How much electrical service is needed for my new home; how can I be sure that it’s sufficient for future needs?
What’s the difference between 110 volt wiring and 220? Are both necessary? What about low-voltage wiring?
Are there different kinds of plugs and switches? What are the reasons for them, and where are they appropriate? Is it possible to plan a central device-charging station and eliminate all the separate cords?
EricK Posted - 11/23/2014 : 07:19:10 AM
I have one of the generic crimping tools from HD for network cables and it works fine. Commercial electric I think. There a some videos on YouTube on how to terminate your cables into a plug which is fine for the utility side. Itntakes some practice to get it right and use strain relief boots to make them look nice. When we moved into out house there was a wired network. I added a middle Atlantic rack with shelves to clean things up. This is an older pic, currently set up is cleaner with more gear. Cable ties are a must.

You do not need a patch panel. For the room side you want to terminate the network cables into keystone jacks. Check monoprice for some inexpensive gear. I have used the small plastic punch down tool that is included with keystone jacks from hd and that works fine. If you are going to be punching down a lot of cables then my be get something better.
Be sure to label everything. There is a very inexpensive tone generator to trace cables. For the network plug you would need a coupler.
For the coax you need the correct tools. Just check reviews on the strippers to make sure you get a decent one. Compression connections seems like they are the best.
Eric

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