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Autogan
Starting Member

Canada
5 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2012 :  12:58:34 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Recently I purchased the Smarthome FanLinc to use with my Hampton Bay Windward II ceiling fan. I've been trying since Saturday morning to install the FanLinc but to no avail. The ceiling fan has its own remote control - in fact it only runs by remote. The receiver mounted at the canopy is model number UC7058R. I've been able to isolate the purpose for each wire except 4 of them which go into the motor case. To complicate things, there is a capacitor (I've discharged it) (capacitor is 3-wire, 2x 4.5 micro Farad) upstream of the motor which is in the UC7058R receiver assembly. My questions:
1) What wires on the capacitor would I connect the red FanLinc wire?
2) Are there any other wiring changes necessary?

Thanks.
(BTW, I tried to load some images, but I can't seem to insert them).

stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2012 :  1:13:37 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
You only need be concerned with the existing fan/light wires connected to the UC7058R. The output side of the UC7058R has four wires, a neutral, two light and one fan. The FanLinc has three wires, a neutral, one light, and one fan. If you're using both light wires, you'll need to combine them into one connection.

What do the three wires on the capacitor connect to now? What do the four unidentified motor wires connect to?

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Autogan
Starting Member

Canada
5 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2012 :  7:30:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The cover for the motor case is proving more difficult to remove than I had anticipated. I hope to answer your question soon.

The capacitor has three wires that are soldered to the UC7058R's PCB. The four wires originate on the PCB and go through a connector to the motor.

Edited by - Autogan on 04/15/2012 3:19:52 PM
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2012 :  10:16:02 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Is the narrower three wire sheath the source of power? Is the pink wire ground? What is under the receiver? Which wires can you identify? What is their purpose? Which can you not identify?

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Autogan
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Canada
5 Posts

Posted - 04/15/2012 :  3:17:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The capacitor's common wire is grey. The other two wires are purple and Brown (Natural). I've attached some photos to better help understanding the wiring (now that I was able to remove the motor covers).


The 4 wires coming from the UC7058R, from left side of photo to right are Pink, Red, yellow and grey (small grey wire somewhat hidden under the yellow wire). I've been able to identify the two wires for the fan light, but I'm not sure what each of these other 4 wires does.


Edited by - Autogan on 04/15/2012 7:29:57 PM
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/15/2012 :  4:29:24 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The remote receiver appears to be an integral part of the motor winding which includes direction control as well as speed. You may not be able to use the FanLinc with this fan

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bnelson
New Member

USA
21 Posts

Posted - 04/15/2012 :  4:43:21 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have an almost identical situation with a fan from Craftmade with the same RF controller/brain.

I am stumped myself, my buddy came over today and doesn't think that it can be used with fanlinc because of the dependents on the circuit board.

I think I have decided to simply trade the fan in for something that is compatible.

Insteon Newbie, 20 Dimmer Switches, 7 On/Off Switches, 4 Dual Band Dimmers, 2 Outlets, (5) 8-Button Keypads, (5) 6-Button Keypads, 3 Fanlincs, Motion System for Bedroom, GarageLinc, SmartLinc and PowerLinc.

System controlled by HouseLinc Software Ver 2.9.17

All in or don't do it!
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Autogan
Starting Member

Canada
5 Posts

Posted - 04/15/2012 :  7:45:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I've spent the last week, on and off, checking forums and manufacturer's websites for anything that will show me how to bypass the UC7058R and allow me to use the FanLinc to control the light and fan speeds. As you pointed out, Bnelson, I think it is the PCB that is making this an impossible task.

Stusviews, you're right about fan direction being part of the setup for this particular fan. I guess this may mean the FanLinc can't be used, which is a shame.

If it is of any consequence, the 3 wires from the capacitor are soldered to locations on the PCB labeled as follows:
Grey = 1C
Brown (Natural) = 2C
Yellow = 3C

The Red wire that comes from the PCB appears to be AC/Line. Other than that, I think I've got bupkis.

Any thoughts of anything else I could try?

Thanks for all your posts.
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/15/2012 :  11:00:46 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Do you have a multimeter? Are you comfortable working with electric? Do you mind if you burn out the motor?

If your answers are YYN, and you have positively identified line, neutral, and light wiring, then measure the resistance between 1C, 2C, 3C and neutral. Did any indicate 0 ohms?

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ELA
Senior Member

320 Posts

Posted - 04/16/2012 :  07:16:35 AM  Show Profile  Visit ELA's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Here is a quote from one of many sources explaining these types of motors:

quote:
Most ceiling fans use a type of motor known as a "permanent split capacitor motor". These motors have two coils, a "start" and a "run" winding. A capacitor is connected in series with the start winding to insert a phase shift, but once the motor is up to speed it becomes an auxiliary winding. In order to reverse the motor, the capacitor is applied to the "run" winding which then becomes the "start" winding. In some cases the windings may have taps to provide different speeds, in others the value of the start/run capacitor is lowered to provide lower speeds. Yet other designs will have additional capacitors wired in series with the motor as a whole to regulate speeds.


From you picture it looks like the the two windings go direct to the circuit board. You would be missing a start capacitor as well as the reversing circuit :(


Insteon Test Data ->: http://www.elavenue.com/insteon_test_data.html
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Autogan
Starting Member

Canada
5 Posts

Posted - 04/26/2012 :  4:46:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you ELA, stusviews and bnelson for your posts. I've come to the conclusion that it was complete madness to attempt re-jig the electronics of the ceiling fan (with the remote control). I've thrown up the white flag and re-assembled the fan for use in the basement. I've taken bnelson's suggestion and I've bought a fan that can use the FanLinc (or so it seems!).

Again, thanks to all of you for your help
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auto159
Starting Member

1 Posts

Posted - 08/05/2014 :  12:31:35 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
This is what I did with my Hampton Bay (HomeDepot) fan.
The UC7051R remote module died in a power surge (again) so I just bypassed the module to control the fan as a standard pull string fan.

You will want to verify the connections and capacitor size for your fan by looking at the traces on the remote module to confirm but the colors look the same as mine.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

Just switch YEL and Pink winding polarity (L vs N) to switch fan direction.

Use with 3 speed fan wall speed control or FanLinc (I do not have a FanLinc to test if this works but I would think it should).

Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |GRY|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|RED|
 -------------
      KEY

Note additional capacitors in the 5uf to 6uf range are for the fan speed control in the remote module. You don't need them if you will be using a Fan speed controller. The configuration above is for high speed. To get the lower speeds connect a capacitor in line with the fan line-in (in series with both sets of windings).
Search terms: Ceiling fan motor wiring diagram, Bypass remote module, Direct wire.

Edited by - auto159 on 08/05/2014 12:54:57 PM
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russelect
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 09/02/2014 :  10:55:50 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes Auto159 it works with Fanlinc, I had mine working but the speeds were too low, but thanks to your diagram it works perfectly now.
I had the Cap wired into the wrong wire. Thanks!!
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Mwood012
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2015 :  7:14:03 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
As I see this is an old topic I hope the last two posters are still available to answer questions. I am replacing my uc7058r with the fanlinc as well and need a little more explicit directions.
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2015 :  10:52:01 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Mwood012

As I see this is an old topic I hope the last two posters are still available to answer questions. I am replacing my uc7058r with the fanlinc as well and need a little more explicit directions.


Connect unswitched line (black) and neutral (white)to the FanLinc. Connect neutral (white) to the UC7058RY white wire.
Connect the FanLinc blue wire (light) to the UC7058RY blue wire (light). Connect the FanLinc red wire (fan) to the UC7058RY black wire (fan).

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Edited by - stusviews on 06/03/2015 12:13:43 AM
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Mwood012
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 06/02/2015 :  6:07:00 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK, so before I read your reply I realized the "wwwwww" were motor windings....! so I wired it up according to the the previous post and the motor/fan worked perfectly. I connected the blue from the fanlinc to blue of the fan harness thinking that had to be the light but it didn't work
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 06/03/2015 :  12:16:25 AM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
If you tested the motor by pushing the button on the FanLinc and the motor worked, the it's mis-wired. The fan cannot be controlled by the FanLinc button. only the light can.

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Mwood012
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 06/04/2015 :  4:28:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Is there a way to upload a diagram. I have one that I would like you to look at. I wired the motor up according to poster auto159 above and it works, changes speed, etc.
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 06/04/2015 :  5:15:10 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The fan diagram I found for the UC7058 doesn't have pink, yellow or gray wires.

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Mwood012
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 06/04/2015 :  6:42:42 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I see, well the photographs posted above in this thread are exactly what I have. I just need to figure out why the light won't turn on....
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 06/04/2015 :  8:19:27 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
The is no mention in the post about the lighting wires except, "Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)."

What did you connect the FanLinc light wire to?

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a002074t
Starting Member

1 Posts

Posted - 03/08/2016 :  2:46:05 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Auto159 - This is exactly what I needed to replace my failing Hampton Bay receiver with a universal one. I would include a couple photos of my work but don't have the time to figure out this forum's archaic interface. Good job in documenting your work.

For those of you who want to add a light, just connect White to White and Blue to Blue from the secondary side of the receiver.


                120V Pwr
(WHT)                                (BLK)
  |                                    |
 |--------------------------------------|
 |                Receiver              |
 |--------------------------------------|
  |                 |                  |
  |              (Blue)                |
  |------Light------|                  |
(WHT)                                (BLK)
  |                                    |
  |                                    |
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+



quote:
Originally posted by auto159

This is what I did with my Hampton Bay (HomeDepot) fan.
The UC7051R remote module died in a power surge (again) so I just bypassed the module to control the fan as a standard pull string fan.

You will want to verify the connections and capacitor size for your fan by looking at the traces on the remote module to confirm but the colors look the same as mine.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

Just switch YEL and Pink winding polarity (L vs N) to switch fan direction.

Use with 3 speed fan wall speed control or FanLinc (I do not have a FanLinc to test if this works but I would think it should).

Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |GRY|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|RED|
 -------------
      KEY

Note additional capacitors in the 5uf to 6uf range are for the fan speed control in the remote module. You don't need them if you will be using a Fan speed controller. The configuration above is for high speed. To get the lower speeds connect a capacitor in line with the fan line-in (in series with both sets of windings).
Search terms: Ceiling fan motor wiring diagram, Bypass remote module, Direct wire.


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Big_R
Starting Member

USA
1 Posts

Posted - 03/29/2016 :  9:22:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
NOTE: I can't figure out how to get the diagram to display correctly - someone send me a tip and I'll correct it!

--

I'm sharing my experience, but I assume no liability for your results. Proceed at your own risk.

After several nervous hours of staring at this thread reading and re-reading, I wanted to add a little more detail for anyone who is feeling the way I was. I now have three fans working with this configuration, and it works perfectly for me. I started with an Insteon Fanlinc (model 2475F) and a Fanimation "Embrace 44" (model FPS7981). These fans contain the Model UC7058RY brain/receiver mentioned by others here, which apparently is found in many other fans. This configuration allows me to use all three speeds on the fan via Insteon Fanlinc, but the fan is not reversible, which I don't care about. You won't be using the wall controller gadget that came with the fan either - that role is taken over by Insteon.

1. Order a "4.5uf ceiling fan capacitor" online. I got one on Amazon for $6 shipped. Mine had two wires and no polarity. Pick up a fire extinguisher while you're at it. (why not?)
http://www.amazon.com/Ceiling-Fan-Capacitor-Wire-4-5uf/dp/B00A3KIM48

2. Cut out the UC7058RY from the fan/motor body. Yes, this feels weird. Leave the wires long on the fan motor side, since you won't be using the UC7058RY any more anyway - its role is replaced by Fanlinc.

3. Connect the wires as shown - I chose to solder several so it would be easier when installing the fan up on the ceiling with wire nuts. In my experience the prior diagrams' PINK/YEL were backwards, since the fan worked but was blowing air up rather than down. When I swapped these (as shown below), the air blew downward as desired. I have also added the RED wire for the Insteon Fanlinc (prior diagrams showed this as "BLK"?).

4. Replace your old wall-switch location with an Insteon 2487S and Insteon 2322-382 button kit. I use the "ON" button as a scene to "turn the room on" - set the lighting, set the fan speed, turn on the TV, etc.


120V Pwr from wall (permanent - not switched)

(WHT) (BLK)
| |
(WHT) (BLK)
| |
+---------------------------------------|
| | Insteon Fanlink (2475F) |
| -------------------------------------|
| | |
| (BLUE) (RED)
+------Light------| |
| |
| |
+-------------------PINK--(motor)--YEL--+
| |
+------(4.5Uf CAP)--GRAY--(motor)--RED--+

Edited by - Big_R on 03/29/2016 9:28:35 PM
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 03/29/2016 :  10:53:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the write-up

A 2487D will work as well because there's no load on the device (i.e., load wire is capped) and it doesn't click as does the 2478S. Unless you're also wiring the KeypadLinc to a greater than 15 amp or non-dimmable load.

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Edited by - stusviews on 03/29/2016 11:08:55 PM
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jpagliughi
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 04/06/2016 :  4:28:00 PM  Show Profile  Click to see jpagliughi's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
Auto159 i have the exact ceiling fan remote interface, can you send me an easier wire diagram to [email protected]? i dont understand what the (wwww) mean between the colors. also will the 3 speeds work? thanks for all your research in this fan problem.
John P.



This is what I did with my Hampton Bay (HomeDepot) fan.
The UC7051R remote module died in a power surge (again) so I just bypassed the module to control the fan as a standard pull string fan.

You will want to verify the connections and capacitor size for your fan by looking at the traces on the remote module to confirm but the colors look the same as mine.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

Just switch YEL and Pink winding polarity (L vs N) to switch fan direction.

Use with 3 speed fan wall speed control or FanLinc (I do not have a FanLinc to test if this works but I would think it should).

Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |GRY|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|RED|
 -------------
      KEY

Note additional capacitors in the 5uf to 6uf range are for the fan speed control in the remote module. You don't need them if you will be using a Fan speed controller. The configuration above is for high speed. To get the lower speeds connect a capacitor in line with the fan line-in (in series with both sets of windings).
Search terms: Ceiling fan motor wiring diagram, Bypass remote module, Direct wire.

[/quote]

John J. Pagliughi
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jpagliughi
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 04/07/2016 :  12:27:05 PM  Show Profile  Click to see jpagliughi's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
i have read all the posts and understand about 50%, can someone tell me if this works with the insteon fanlinc? also on the schemnatics what do the wwwww mean?
thanks to all
John

John J. Pagliughi
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/07/2016 :  1:13:40 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I don't see any posts in this topic that refers to 50%.

The on-line FanLinc Owner's Manual does have an explanation of the various dimmer percent levels and how they affect the speed of the fan.

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MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
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jpagliughi
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 04/07/2016 :  3:22:51 PM  Show Profile  Click to see jpagliughi's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
i apoligize for the confusion stusviews, i meant 50% of this topic of Hampton bay fan and the FanLinc schematics, can anyone or you simplifly the schematics so my hampton bay fan with the UC7051R remote module work with FanLinc module??? thanks for replying John

John J. Pagliughi
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/07/2016 :  5:08:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
It appears the the original remote receiver is removed and the FanLinc is installed in its stead.

The motor is not shown in any but Big_Rs post which suggests that that's what the w's represent.

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jpagliughi
Starting Member

USA
5 Posts

Posted - 04/10/2016 :  12:27:02 PM  Show Profile  Click to see jpagliughi's MSN Messenger address  Reply with Quote
stusviews and Big_Rs can you please send me schematics and instructions on how to remove the remote receiver and wire so i can install the FanLinc I WOULD BE IN YOUR DEBT FOR WHAT EVER YOU NEED IN THE FUTURE!!! i really want this to work but dont want to blow the fan up (Wife will kill me)
thanks for all the replies.
John

John J. Pagliughi
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HiMiles
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 04/17/2016 :  11:18:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I was so happy to find this thread, and to know I'm not crazy for trying to salvage my fan. I purchase recently a used Hampton Bay Windward II without a remote. I didn't know ahead how difficult it would be to find the proper remote even though a lot of the thermostatic remotes look almost identical. First of all, I verified that the fan motor as well as the fluorescent light were functioning, by bypassing the receiver (UC7058R). When i borrowed my friend's thermostatic remote used with a newer production HB WindwardII fan (2015), it did not work with mine (produced 2008,all the pins were identical on both the fan motor and the remote).
My question is first of, how do i make sure the receiver is working properly? the 3 wire capacitor looks intact; I need help and guidance on what to test and how, please. Second, how do i know which thermostatic remote to buy, assuming the receiver is not at fault.

Edited by - HiMiles on 04/17/2016 11:34:36 AM
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