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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/17/2016 :  1:19:21 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This topic is about converting a Hampton Bay fan to use an Insteon FanLinc.

The only way to test the existing Hampton Bay receiver is to transmit a signal from a known working compatible transmitter to it. You'll have to research the fan you have to determine which transmitters are compatible.

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HiMiles
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 04/17/2016 :  1:52:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Stu. The reason why i posed the question here is because it involved the same fan with an identical receiver. i am guessing retrofitting a Fanlinc was due a dead receiver or a lost remote, since the thermostatic remote has some additional functionalities. I was hoping Autogan could share the earlier steps that led him to go for the Fanlinc. Do you recommend a specific forum for my questions, or create a separate thread? Thanks in advance!

quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

This topic is about converting a Hampton Bay fan to use an Insteon FanLinc.

The only way to test the existing Hampton Bay receiver is to transmit a signal from a known working compatible transmitter to it. You'll have to research the fan you have to determine which transmitters are compatible.

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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/17/2016 :  2:28:15 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Your dilemma involves a product that's not at all SH nor Insteon involved. Your best bet is to search for the manual for the fan model. That should indicate the specific remote model number.

I'm awaiting a flight or I'd research for you

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HiMiles
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 04/17/2016 :  2:39:20 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Stu for the quick reply and have a safe trip!
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

Your dilemma involves a product that's not at all SH nor Insteon involved. Your best bet is to search for the manual for the fan model. That should indicate the specific remote model number.

I'm awaiting a flight or I'd research for you

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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/18/2016 :  12:04:50 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
http://www.amazon.com/Hampton-Bay-FAN9T-Thermostatic-Remote-Control/dp/B00AM00QJS

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HiMiles
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 04/18/2016 :  1:35:18 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thank you Stu, I really appreciate your help and time. So this is the confusing part, my friend's Hampton Bay Windward II ceiling fan has the same remote the FAN9T that i tried on mine and it didn't work. I actually opened up his fan to get to his receiver, and it turned out different (FAN10-R as opposed to UC7058R). So i still can't tell if my receiver is the culprit, or I need a different remote. From what i understood from Hampton Bay, many of the remotes model FAN9T have different setup within them depending on the year the fan was produced. I have lots of pictures to share, but i can't figure out the attachment procedure. Thanks again for your time, i really appreciate it.

quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

http://www.amazon.com/Hampton-Bay-FAN9T-Thermostatic-Remote-Control/dp/B00AM00QJS

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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 04/18/2016 :  3:29:47 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Here's a remote plus receiver: http://www.amazon.com/Hampton-Bay-Thermostatic-Ceiling-Control/dp/B001AQQSRM

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Bigolotava
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 07/03/2017 :  4:06:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
While this thread is old, I was very glad to find it. Having a bad Rhine UC7058RY fan controller in my Hunter fan, I decided to remove the bad controller and just wire the Motor & Lamp leads to a fan control/dimmer from Home Depot. (Hunter #27182)

After disassembling the fan, was surprised to find there wasn't a single lead for the motor, but rather four! Having no idea how they were connected, I searched and found this thread. I simply re-used the 4.5uF run capacitor from the dead Rhine controller and wired up the windings as shown on the previous pages. The fan & light work great!

Really appreciate everyone's insight, as it saved me from having to purchase a new ceiling fan! Thanks!

Kevin - Chandler, AZ
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folkega
Starting Member

1 Posts

Posted - 07/29/2017 :  3:38:11 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would like to do the same thing to a Hunter Model 23530-300 Fan. The receiver Model 85112-04 has failed. The wire colors do not line up exactly with the above description for Hampton Bay. The Hunter connector colors are black, white, yellow, red, pink, gray, brown.
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Bigolotava
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 07/30/2017 :  12:02:47 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
The Yellow/Red/Pink/Grey wires should be the motor windings as described on page-1.

The Black & White are for the 120V/Neutral that went to the controller.

The brown likely went to the 3-wire run capacitor in the controller.
If it too goes to the motor, leave it disconnected and either tape it off or screw a wire nut over the end of it so it won't short to anything. Then connect as shown back on page-1.

I completely removed the old, malfunctioning controller. Once you do that, all you need to connect to the power are the four motor winding wires as shown on page-1 (along with a 4.5uF capacitor) to the 120VAC and neutral.

Be sure to make sure its rotating the correct direction BEFORE you get it all put back together. You may need to swap the polarity on the Pink/Yellow winding to get it to rotate in the proper direction. I momentarily connected power on mine to see which way the motor started to go... it was reversed, so was glad I checked first!

Back at your wall switch is where you'll now install a new, generic fan speed control switch. Depending on your preference, you can get one to control the fan speed only, or both the fan speed and the lights.

They cost about $25 at Home Depot/Lowes and I've found them to be much more reliable than the fan-mounted Rhine controller.

Hope this helps!


quote:
Originally posted by folkega

I would like to do the same thing to a Hunter Model 23530-300 Fan. The receiver Model 85112-04 has failed. The wire colors do not line up exactly with the above description for Hampton Bay. The Hunter connector colors are black, white, yellow, red, pink, gray, brown.

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Autonow
Average Member

USA
106 Posts

Posted - 08/09/2018 :  12:02:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit Autonow's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Been here done that with my Casablanca fans. You need to strip the system down to motor leads and the light. Then hook up the fanlinc. You may need to add a run capacitor across the motor leads (not power) since it was probably part of the original fan controller.
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JoeOz
Starting Member

3 Posts

Posted - 06/10/2020 :  6:27:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Although this is an older discussion I'm hoping to get some direction and suggestion with my fan speed controller. I purchased a Harley Davidson fan back in 2006 as an Anniversary present for our home and it has worked flawlessly until we returned from a vacation to find some appliances, a tv, and a computer with fried motherboards, and the fan no longer worked either. It has a Rhine speed control Model UC7058RYS and the remote has the number UC7068TG, and all made in Taiwan. I found an Anderic speed controller on Ebay that looks identical, right down to the same color of wires for $49.95.
ebay.com/itm/Original-ANDERIC-Ceiling-Fan-Receiver-for-Windward-II-54-in-Ceiling-Fan-523127/114250557042?
If you want just Copy the URL and paste to your browser to take a look.
I read all the threads about the UC7058RY and all the wiring info but I'm not sure what the "S" on my model designates and the "RY" model has only 7 wires and mine has 8. So before I do anything or sink any money into it I'm hoping to find out what wires I connect to power to see if the motor still spins.
Also, assuming the motor's good, any insights about the Anderic control unit would be great. I would have no problem hooking it up to a wall controller as we always had the remote sitting in its cradle on the wall anyways, but finding a compatible controller would certainly be the simplest and easiest thing to do.
If hooked up to a wall unit I can live without the sound box and the light dimmer feature but we do use the light, all the speeds, and the reverse features.
The colors of the wires are:pink,red,black,blue,grey,yellow and two white wires. The sticker has the UPC#850251810015 and the model says 52HARL. It looks like the serial number is 0003556.
Thanks in advance and I look forward to hearing from someone.
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Bigolotava
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 06/27/2020 :  10:38:18 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Joe,

The in-fan speed controllers are very poor quality. Don't waste your time or money trying to install another. Best solution is to get a wall mounted fan controller at Lowe's, Home Depot or most any home improvement store. All the wall mounted controllers control fan speed, the better ones also include a light switch/dimming feature as well as a reverse direction switch. Some even have their own remotes if you prefer going that route.

To do this though, you first need to gut the fan of the old controller and wiring so you can wire directly to the motor windings as shown on page-1 per auto159's diagrams. Your fan's light is wired via the blue lead and one of those white leads. They in turn are connected back to your wall mounted fan controller. I found it easier to just take the fan down from the ceiling, remove all the blades, then disassemble as necessary so you can remove the old controller and get the leads for motor windings and the light sorted-out. If you're not good at electro-mechanical things like this, best to find a pro or buddy who is. Once you have access to the wires, wire as shown back on page-1. I do hope this helps, as it did help me and the fan has been working fine now for several years. All the best - Kevin
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JoeOz
Starting Member

3 Posts

Posted - 06/27/2020 :  7:59:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the great info! I'm pretty handy with wiring and I already have it disassembled, so with this new info I can move forward on the project. But while I have it down I plan to give it a good cleaning and lube what I can and see if I can eliminate the slight hum in the motor. If you have any tips that can help on this as well it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks again for the wiring information!

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Bigolotava
Starting Member

USA
4 Posts

Posted - 06/27/2020 :  9:08:28 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Joe - Forgot to mention that the 4.5uF shown in auto159's diagram is a capacitor. My old controller had three of them: 8.0, 6.0 and 4.7uF. I simply snipped-off the 4.7uF capacitor and used it. Used two small wire nuts. One between the capacitor and the grey motor wire and to the other end of the capacitor to the neutral. The capacitors in my old controller were yellow/rectangular with leads about 3/4" long.

The hum you heard was likely caused by the old speed controller sending a distorted electrical signal to the motor rather than a nice, clean sine wave. I'd bet that was causing the motor to hum. Regarding lube, a drop of 3 in 1 oil or motor oil onto the motor shaft where it goes into the housing should do if your concerned about lubrication. The oil will wick into the bearing. Don't overdue it or you'll have a mess.
Just a drop or two at most should do it.

Let me know how it turns out or if you have any other questions,

Kevin
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JoeOz
Starting Member

3 Posts

Posted - 07/02/2020 :  3:06:49 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the new info Kevin! It'll be a while before I get to it as my wife & I are now in NH - getting away from the Florida heat & humidity - and will return in Sept. I'll post again when I get it back together or if I have any other questions. You've been a great help and we both really appreciate it as the fan was purchased in '06 as our 25th anniversary gift to each other and are anxious to see it back in action. Have a great summer!
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nathan.j.wells
Starting Member

USA
1 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2020 :  07:05:40 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Found this thread from Kent Diego's youtube video "Hampton Bay or Hunter Ceiling Fan Remote Re-Wiring for Wall Control." Ordered a new capacitor and wired it up with a Luton Maestro dimmer and fan control wall switch. Works perfectly other than not being reversible. Anyone try to wire up a switch to allow easier fan reversal? I am stumped at the moment but won't give up, so if I or my friends figure it out I will post.

Thanks jpagliughi for the wiring diagram!
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donchicago48
Starting Member

USA
1 Posts

Posted - 05/31/2021 :  05:30:51 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for helping solve a defunct quarter-century-old Hunter Model 25730 Ceiling Fan Remote Control Model CP-9110R issue. Calls to Hunter yielded little more help than a discount coupon for a new fan. The pinout of the 9-pin connector on this fan was somewhat different than the Hampton Bay model referenced in the quoted message from auto159:

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |RED|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|GRY|
 -------------
      KEY


The CP-9110R Remote Control on the Hunter Fan was located inside a round cup-shaped housing hanging beneath the fan motor. The cup could serve as the mounting point for optional light assemblies.

I removed a dual 5 uf Capacitor from the Remote Control by clipping its two Red leads and two Brown leads as close to the Remote Control Printed Circuit Board as possible. I stripped the insulation from the Red leads in preparation for connecting them to the revised wiring circuit below. The Brown capacitor leads are not used.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through the 5uf 250V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+


For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through the 5uf 250V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+




quote:
Originally posted by auto159

This is what I did with my Hampton Bay (HomeDepot) fan.
The UC7051R remote module died in a power surge (again) so I just bypassed the module to control the fan as a standard pull string fan.

You will want to verify the connections and capacitor size for your fan by looking at the traces on the remote module to confirm but the colors look the same as mine.

For down rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to Red and Pink
Connect N (WHT) directly to Yel and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to Gray


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+-------YEL---wwwww---Pink---+---L
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

For up rotation:
Connect L (BLK) directly to RED and Yellow
Connect N (WHT) directly to Pink and through 4.5uf 300V Cap to GRY


(WHT)                                (BLK)
  N --+------Pink---wwwww---YEL----+---L 
      |                            |
      +--4.5Uf--GRY-wwwww---RED----+

Just switch YEL and Pink winding polarity (L vs N) to switch fan direction.

Use with 3 speed fan wall speed control or FanLinc (I do not have a FanLinc to test if this works but I would think it should).

Direct wire Lights to wall light control (I pushed a new set of 16 awg wires down the support pipe for the lights)

9 Pin Connector
Viewed from motor wire side of connector.

 _____________
 |GRY|YEL|GND|
 |---+---+---|
 |BLK|   |WHT|
 |---+---+---|
 |   |PNK|RED|
 -------------
      KEY

Note additional capacitors in the 5uf to 6uf range are for the fan speed control in the remote module. You don't need them if you will be using a Fan speed controller. The configuration above is for high speed. To get the lower speeds connect a capacitor in line with the fan line-in (in series with both sets of windings).
Search terms: Ceiling fan motor wiring diagram, Bypass remote module, Direct wire.


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