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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  4:06:38 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi all,

I'm looking to setup some Insteon automation in my master bathroom and need some input. I already have an Insteon Hub controller. Basically, the switch for the vanity lights are not near the door to the bathroom. There is a 2 gang box near the bathroom door that controls the bathroom fan and light over the shower. I thought of the below two options. Please let me know your thoughts and if there are any other options.

1. I replace the existing switch for the vanity light with a 2477D switch and get a 2342-242 remote switch to mount in the two gang box near the bathroom door in place of the shower light (I don't use the shower light). I believe this would solve my issue of having the bathroom light control by the door but would require me to take out and recharge the remote switch periodically.

2. I replace the existing switch for the vanity light with a 2477D switch and replace the shower light switch by the door with a 2477D switch as well. Would this allow me to use the 2477D switch by the door that is wired to the shower light to control the vanity lights only (perhaps through a scene where they both come on and then the shower one goes off immediately)? The idea is to not have to recharge anything here.

Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10692 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  4:26:15 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
That's an odd configuration. Have you looked into the switch box nearest the entrance to see what wiring is available?

I wouldn't use a rechargeable unit there. Instead, install three switch devices--one dimmer by the vanity, one dimmer nearest the door, and one SwitchLinc relay next to it. Wire both the shower light and fan to the relay switch. On the dimmer next to it, cap off the load wire without connecting it to anything. Then cross-link the dimmer by the door to control the vanity light dimmer.
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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  4:37:37 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the quick reply.

I'm afraid I don't fully understand your proposed solution and the relay module looks to be discontinued http://www.smarthome.com/2476SS/SwitchLinc-Relay-INSTEON-Remote-Control-On-Off-Switch-Non-Dimming-with-Sense-White/p.aspx

Any way you can clarify your suggestion or draw up a quick diagram?
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  4:52:22 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Another choice is a KeypadLinc near the door which will allow control of all three from one location.

It's even possible to create a 3-device KPL using "off the shelf" parts:

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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  4:59:00 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
SwitchLinc Relay replacement: http://www.smarthome.com/2477S/SwitchLinc-On-Off-INSTEON-Remote-Control-Switch-Dual-Band-White/p.aspx

An Insteon SwitchLinc dimmer or On/Off module or KeypadLinc replaces the existing switches with the caveat that a neutral wire be present in the switch box. Once installed, the Insteon switch or keypad can be made a controller of and/or responder to any other Insteon device. The links are made via button pushing or, with additional gear, from a computer or smartphone.

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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  8:18:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks Stu.

I have installed the 2477 switches before and know it needs a common wire.

So per my original inquiry, will I be able to get a 2477D for the vanity light and another 2477D for the shower light and have just the shower light 2477D switch control the vanity light (but always keep the shower light off)?
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10692 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  8:20:26 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Use a model 2477d for the vanity and another 2477d for the remote control.

Use the model 2477s for the fan and the shower light.
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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  8:37:10 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I think we are still not on the same page so I made a quick diagram at .

Again, the 2 gang box is near the bathroom door and the 3 gang one is not but the 3 gang one has the switch to the vanity which I am trying to control from the two gang box. I'm hoping that using two 2477D dimmers (one for the vanity and one for the shower light) will let me use the dimmer in the two gang box wired to the shower light to ONLY control the vanity light. I do not want to turn on the shower light as I will never use it (taking out the bulb in the shower light could be a possibility).
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Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10692 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  9:01:07 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
My suggestion was in anticipation that someone would, at some point, want to use that shower light.

By changing the wiring so that the shower light and fan were both controlled by a single switch (the non-dimmable model 2477s), that would free up one gang in box A to hold a 2477d that would act strictly as a remote control for a 2477d in position b.
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 05/17/2014 :  10:25:57 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Skyace888
So per my original inquiry, will I be able to get a 2477D for the vanity light and another 2477D for the shower light and have just the shower light 2477D switch control the vanity light (but always keep the shower light off)?


Yes. Wire the 2477D as a load controller of the vanity light. Install a 2477D in place of the shower light switch. Cap both load wires separately (SwitchLinc, shower light). Group (cross-link) the two 2477Ds.

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MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 05/18/2014 :  07:50:00 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
We would never plan to use the shower light. With this in mind and based on Stu's suggestion, my understanding is:

- Wire a 2477D to the vanity light as normal
- Wire a 2477D in the space where the shower light switch is now. Only use the hot, common and ground wire and do not use the load wire to the shower light. The load wire to the shower light and the load wire on the switch will both be capped off separately.
- The two switches will be cross-linked (I haven't done this process before but I'm sure it's pretty straightforward).

Is this correct?
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 05/18/2014 :  1:33:03 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Yes, that's correct.

Cross-linking is linking each device as both a controller of and responder to the other device. Optionally, set the ramp rate (two taps) and On-level (one tap) of the responding device within four minutes of creating the link.

Tip: if setting both the ramp rate and On-level manually, then set the ramp rate first to avoid inadvertently re-setting the On-Level.

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.


Please don't PM with questions that can be asked in a forum.
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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 05/18/2014 :  1:36:56 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks everyone. I've ordered the 2477D modules.
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PittCaleb
Junior Member

USA
35 Posts

Posted - 05/20/2014 :  11:41:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stusviews

It's even possible to create a 3-device KPL using "off the shelf" parts:




Can you tell how you created this 4-button KPL or what parts we need to acquire to do this? Have been searching for 2/4 button KPL's and this seems near-perfect.
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 05/20/2014 :  12:39:54 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
It's possible to create 3-, 4-, 6-, and 7-device KPLs. That's because a large button fits over two small buttons. A downside is an unlit space about 4mm (5/32") between the small buttons.

For a 3- or 4- or 6-device KPL, a 6-button faceplate is used. An 8-button faceplate is needed for a 7-device KPL.

The KPL is in 6-button mode for the 3-device KPL and in 8-button mode for all others.

Both 3- and 4-device KPLs require four large buttons. A 6-device KPL uses two large and four small buttons and a 7-device KPL has one large and six small buttons.

Two steps (in any order):
1. Cross-link each pair of small buttons that will be covered by a large button.
2. Create identical links for each pair of small buttons that will be covered by a large button.

If you have an Insteon manager such as an ISY, Hub or HouseLinc, then use scenes, but it can also be done manually.

6-device KPL

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.


Please don't PM with questions that can be asked in a forum.

Edited by - stusviews on 05/20/2014 12:44:02 PM
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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 06/11/2014 :  05:48:54 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
So I wired up the bathroom as suggested a few days ago with one dimmer as a controller and the other a responder for the light. It was working perfectly but now for some reason whenever I turn on the dimmer it trips the breaker. What are some initial things I can try?
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BLH
Advanced Member

5925 Posts

Posted - 06/11/2014 :  07:07:08 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Do you know if the breaker is a GFCI or Arc Fault type?
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 06/11/2014 :  10:57:43 AM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Remove the dimmer and check the connections. Is the load wire securely capped?

Stu's Views is Education and Fun. What do YOU want to VIEW today?
MathLandia High school mathematics learning fun.
Both Stu's Views and MathLandia are free websites that do not sell anything.
Saving energy is not always free. Be a world saver.


Please don't PM with questions that can be asked in a forum.
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Skyace888
Junior Member

49 Posts

Posted - 06/11/2014 :  11:22:49 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Yes everything is good. I reset a GFCI outlet on the circuit and it seems to be working for now. Not sure if there is any correlation but I'll keep an eye on things.
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SamSom
Starting Member

9 Posts

Posted - 12/18/2018 :  04:36:19 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Agree! Insteon is a way more reliable than z-wave. I love how you can program one device to interact directly with another, like a switch to a plug. A lot of times Insteon gets left out when talking about smart home tech, which is unfortunate. I am just in the process of my bathroom renovation. Have just ordered AM Bath. I will try to do my bathroom as smart as possible;)
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Edited by - SamSom on 01/25/2019 02:26:54 AM
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