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sccestaro
Starting Member

6 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2015 :  04:32:48 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I would like to control a 3 way circuit with my hub. Do I need to put new insteon dimmer switches at all switch locations or can it be just one while leaving manual switches at remaining locations?
Thanks!

oberkc
Moderator

USA
4159 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2015 :  07:03:32 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
If the only goal is to control a three-way circuit with the hub, then I suppose you could replace the one switch powering the load with insteon and eliminate the second. However, if you still require local control at both switch locations, then both switches need to be insteon.

Before embarking on such a venture, be sure to establish that you have a neutral at both switch locations. If not, you may also require a third insteon device at the fixture location.

Edited by - oberkc on 09/11/2015 07:19:27 AM
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 09/11/2015 :  6:28:50 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
All switches in a multi-way circuit must be Insteon devices. In virtually every 3-way configuration at least one white wire is not a neutral. That's OK if at least one of the boxes has a neutral wire. If not, then you'll need a third device such as a Micro Module.

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BloodBrother
Starting Member

4 Posts

Posted - 10/10/2015 :  4:52:30 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Ok, Sorry to jump in here but I have a related question. I've seen in some other discussions similar to my problem but not the exact info I need. I have a 3-way switch at the top and bottom of my stairs. It controls a recessed light on my stairway landing and I don't have access to the wiring. Each box (I'll label box 1 top of the stairs, 2 - bottom of the stairs) has a single cable each with 3 wires, black, red, and white. Each have all three wires connected to the current standard 3-way switch.

Light Off:

Box 1 off position, 120V Black to White, 120V Black to Red Box 2 On Position, 120V Black to White, 120V Red to White
Box 1 on Position, 120V Black to White, 120V Red to White Box 2 off position, 120V Black to White, 120V Black to Red

Light On:

Box 1 in On position, All 0V, Box 2 on position, All 0V
Box 1 in Off position, All 0V, Box 2 off position, All 0V

Very confused. But since switch 2 is in box with another unrelated switch, I can hook into line connection in Box 2. Box 1 at top of stairs doesn't have access to anything except the single cable.

Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

Kevin


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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 10/10/2015 :  6:14:11 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
I replied to your other post. BTW, duplicate posts on the same forum may give disparate responses.

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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 10/10/2015 :  6:30:05 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
Neither switch has a neutral. It is sometimes possible to pick up line and neutral from another switch in the same box, but even if you could there is no way to provide a neutral at the top of the stairs (Box 1) without removing the fixture.

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BloodBrother
Starting Member

4 Posts

Posted - 10/11/2015 :  8:55:24 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the advice. I guess I've got to get into the recessed lighting.
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stusviews
Advanced Member

USA
15854 Posts

Posted - 10/11/2015 :  10:50:20 PM  Show Profile  Visit stusviews's Homepage  Reply with Quote
This is the most likely way your 3-way configuration is wired. but guessing wiring is not valid. If your wiring is not exactly as shown, post what you find.

Tip: One switch connects to the line, the other to the load. On each switch, that wire is connected to a black screw. The wires connected to brass screws are travelers.

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johnpolasek
New Member

USA
23 Posts

Posted - 10/13/2015 :  12:36:19 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I can't send actual drawings, but in my house, I use a single micro on/off module (2443-222) to work with the existing switches. If you can get into the fixture box and it will fit, it is fairly easy. You just add another wire from the black and neutral "power source" wires coming into the box and wire them into the Line and Neutral on the micro module, disconnect the black wire at the load and hook the yellow sense wire on the micro module into it, and connect the Load connection on the micro module to where it originally went. Then in the hub, set the "three way toggle" on in the device... the light will toggle every time either switch changes state (or is commanded by the hub).

John Polasek
College Station
TX
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