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rwforrest
Starting Member

Canada
1 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2018 :  12:33:25 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have around 20 SwitchLinc 2476S switches in my home. They are about 8 years old now. For the 2 year they have started to fail one at a time. I have 7 dead switches now and I'm worried more will die. Some of them just died out, others had a dim LED light but wouldn't turn the light on. Anyone else having issues with switches going around 8 years? And is there a component that could be replaced that normally blows on these switches?

lilyoyo1
Senior Member

244 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2018 :  12:46:52 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
They are electronic so it wouldn't surprise me if they are starting to die. All electronics for at some point. You could try to replace the capacitors inside them or upgrade to newer versions.
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EVIL Teken
Advanced Member

Canada
2358 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2018 :  1:33:41 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by rwforrest

I have around 20 SwitchLinc 2476S switches in my home. They are about 8 years old now. For the 2 year they have started to fail one at a time. I have 7 dead switches now and I'm worried more will die. Some of them just died out, others had a dim LED light but wouldn't turn the light on. Anyone else having issues with switches going around 8 years? And is there a component that could be replaced that normally blows on these switches?



I've restored many switches by simply replacing the capacitors inside of these units. 90% were saved this way while others required extra components such as the Zener diode, SMD resistor, to timing crystal.

This is why buying a few old units from the interwebs is a good idea for spare parts. Keeping in mind this assumes your soldering skills and tools are sufficient.

Lastly, it should be noted different years of hardware used extremely high temp solder. Thus having a variable soldering gun / station is mandatory as failure to have the proper tip and heat range set can damage the multiple layer PCB.

Which will damage small traces and side components due to heat conduction into them.

Pro Tip: Instead of trying to desolder and pull the caps off. Simply cut them off from the PCB and once clear use a compressor to to blow the solder clear from the holes as you hold the solder gun / iron to the through hole area.

This will give you a nice clean hole and avoids long duration's of heating trying to get the solder wick away. Solder suckers and solder wick is time consuming and requires a perfect environment to accomplish this task.

Teken . . .

Want to make a real difference? Cast your vote to make the PLM Pro a reality: http://forum.insteon.com/forum/main-category/new-insteon-device-wish-list/8221-plm-pro

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I will forever miss our chats, debates, and collaboration. I will not remember how you died but remember how you lived and what you left behind. The sky has another star in the Heavens where you reside but the Earth is much darker with out your light to lead the way.
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BLH
Advanced Member

5836 Posts

Posted - 04/08/2018 :  3:27:08 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I have repaired 2566S3 ApplianceLincs.
Dried out capacitors in most. One had a shorted surface mounted thirty volt Zener diode.
My 2476S Switchlincs are getting due for dying. Some are 2006 if memory serves me.
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