Talk About the Latest in Home Automation/Home Electronics -
Home Automation Forum

Smarthome Forum
Insteon Home Automation
Login or Register
 
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Search | FAQ | Smarthome | Security and Privacy
 All Forums
 General Discussion
 Lighting and Appliance Control
 GE Smart Switch - install trouble
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  

FiftyEight
Starting Member

Canada
3 Posts

Posted - 07/11/2018 :  4:38:39 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Hi there! I apologize if I can't find a form related to this but I'm having trouble asking the question which is making it difficult to search for an answer. essentially I've installed a Smart Switch that works when I originally installed it I put what I believe to be the traveler wire in The Travelers lot unfortunately none of the other sockets and the room worked. so I then tried installing what I thought was a traveler wire in the load slide and everything seemed to work except now when I dim the light it dims all the sockets in the room. https://youtu.be/EV7wsNfaTDc
How do I set it up so that the sockets have regular power and the Light alone is controlled by the Smart Switch?

Caleb

Edited by - FiftyEight on 07/11/2018 4:41:35 PM

oberkc
Moderator

USA
3749 Posts

Posted - 07/12/2018 :  03:48:59 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
I might be able to help, but would need at least two things:

a) make and model of switch
b) description of cables and wires in the switch box. (describe each bundle of wires coming in to the box and the color of each wire.)

Do you have a volt meter? Do you remember how the original switch was installed?
Go to Top of Page

BLH
Advanced Member

5836 Posts

Posted - 07/12/2018 :  04:00:52 AM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Traveler wire.
Is the original setup a three way where two switches control a set of lights?
Go to Top of Page

FiftyEight
Starting Member

Canada
3 Posts

Posted - 07/12/2018 :  5:28:48 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Thanks for the help guys. It's a GE z-wave plus wireless smart dimmer switch. The switch itself is the only switch that controls the light (it is not a 3 way). The original switch had 3 black wires coming out. One wire connects the rest of the rooms sockets. The other two are the line and load. Here's the diagram of the switch.https://m.media-amazon.com/images/S/aplus-media/vc/03962d79-01d0-47e0-9667-ff647c7a35d1._CR0,0,3000,3000_PT0_SX220__.jpg.

Caleb
Go to Top of Page

oberkc
Moderator

USA
3749 Posts

Posted - 07/12/2018 :  5:46:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Like I said, I would be happy to try to help, but would require make and model of switch (to look up the manual...please include the remote switch, if any), along with a description of cables and wires in the switch box (only three black wires in the switch box?!) I am also curious as to the answer to the question asked by BLH.

Based upon the video, I assume you have the cable for the sockets connected to the load connection on the switch (should be connected to the line connection instead). I have no idea what wire you would be connecting to the traveler connection or why you think there is a traveler wire.

Please...it is most helpful if you answer the questions asked.

Edited by - oberkc on 07/12/2018 5:55:22 PM
Go to Top of Page

FiftyEight
Starting Member

Canada
3 Posts

Posted - 07/13/2018 :  2:00:33 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Sorry I was trying my best to answer, in reference to blh The switch itself is the only switch that controls the light (it is not a 3 way).

Make of switch: GE
Model: z-wave plus wireless smart dimmer switch (https://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-Z-Wave-Plus-In-Wall-Smart-Dimmer-14294/300808988)
Description of what's in the box: 3 black wires and white neutral wires twisted together at the back.

Hope that helps! Thanks again.

Caleb
Go to Top of Page

Tfitzpatri8
Administrator

USA
10643 Posts

Posted - 07/13/2018 :  3:23:59 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
Only multi-way switches use traveler wires.

Ordinary mechanical switches wired to code connect to two insulated wires, carrying line voltage from the fixture box and, when on, returning that same Line connection to the lamp. There may be a third wire, either bare copper or a green insulated wire, connecting the metal frame of the switch to a safety ground. In some jurisdictions, code requires use of metal boxes and metal conduit, in which case the boxes and conduit offer the safety ground connection.
Go to Top of Page

oberkc
Moderator

USA
3749 Posts

Posted - 07/13/2018 :  3:32:22 PM  Show Profile  Reply with Quote
OK. I assume there are three cables, each with one black and one white. Correct?

Leave traveler unconnected to anything. (No third switch.)

It sounds as if you have identified line, load, and continuation-to-outlets. Connect line and continuation wires to switch "line". Connect load to switch "load". Neutral white wires to switch "neutral". As TFitz advises, ground the switch if you have separate ground conductors.
Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
 New Topic  Reply to Topic
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
Smarthome Forum © 2000-2018 Smartlabs, Inc Go To Top Of Page
Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.07